by Margaret Swaine | May 1, 2009
A Chat with Ontario’s Finest Chefs
Chefs Mark McEwan, David Lee and Jamie Kennedy are famous for their food and for their support of local farmers and producers. Food and wine writer Margaret Swaine spoke with the three on behalf of My Ontario Magazine.
What’s it like to be an Ontario chef on a world stage?
Lee: “I don’t see myself as a chef on a world stage, but am proud to be able to serve local Ontario products at Splendido.”
Kennedy: “It is about maintaining consistency and meeting expectations from customers that there is something unique to take away with them in their memories.”
McEwan: “It is amazing to be part of the movement and help contribute to the food scene in Toronto / Ontario. Years ago making trips to New York there was a major divide but now we have equal footing and it’s a great thing to see.”
When you compete in international or national chef competitions do you bring Ontario ingredients with you and what would some of those be?
Lee: “When we compete internationally I am always keen to bring the seasonal flavors of Canada to the plate, whether by using Quebec Foie gras, naturally raised Cumbrae Farms ribsteak or Ontario strawberries.”
Kennedy: “I don’t compete in competitions.”
McEwan: “Quebec foie gras, quails, ramps, morels…”
What ingredients do you think typify our province?
Lee: “Stone fruit from Niagara, Bruce Peninsula apples and pears, freshwater fish from the Great Lakes.”
Kennedy: “For me it is more a quest to find what best represents the regions of Ontario. Let’s identify regional differentiation in gastronomy.”
McEwan: “Spring ramps, morels, pickerel, perch…”
Who are some of your favourite Ontario farmers and what are their products?
Lee: “Simple. Jannsen Farm white asparagus and Cumbrae Farms with their Haldimand County Dorset lamb, Larry’s farm suckling pig and Angus or Wagyu Beef.”
Kennedy: “There are many and the list is ever expanding thank goodness. I love Michael Schmidt, but I can’t use his beautiful fresh milk products because it is not legal to sell them in my restaurant. This is a shame and interferes with identifying regional differentiation in food and artisan food products.”
McEwan: “[David] Cohlmeyer’s – carrots, tomatoes…”
What are some of the favourite Ontario dishes you have created and what makes them so? Do you have a ‘signature’ Ontario dish?
Lee: “My cuisine is largely based on seasonality, and as such there are a few. In May poached Jannsen Farm white asparagus with a simple Hollandaise sauce. August finds us with Freskiw Farms wild blueberries which I use to make protein shakes. They are full of antioxidants and more of my signature dish at home and throughout the summer, a 1 ¾” thick-cut charcoal-grilled Cumbrae Farms ribsteak. Late June gives us Ontario strawberry crunch with Champagne foam. All of these dishes are simple in their concept and highlight the great local products available to us. At Splendido our philosophy is eat and buy local.”
Kennedy: “Pristine Poached Whitefish with Hillier Soubise and Beet Glaze. So, the pristine is a cold pressed soya oil from Jason Persall who makes this oil in Ontario. The whitefish is indigenous to Lake Huron where it is fished. The Hillier Soubise is made from onions grown on my farm. The soil gives extremely good tasting onions and I make them into a sauce for the fish. So it is the feeling that all these ingredients came from Ontario that makes the conception and the preparation of the dish exciting and unique.”
McEwan: “Pan seared pickerel with sweet corn risotto”
What do you deem to be the most exciting Ontario food trend at this moment in time?
Lee: “The Ontario food trend I’m most excited about is the continued evolution and support of local, small-market farmers.”
Kennedy: “To recapture the spirit of our forebears in how they approached cooking. They were tied to the seasons and were forced to cope with the harsh winters. Much creativity emerged from that challenge. In support of local food economies many chefs are turning their attention to their rural partners in gastronomy, the growers.”
McEwan: “I really believe that the “food trend” is non existent. Chefs are really just adding their own twist as we are all very confident in creating great dishes.”
What’s your feeling about organic farming in Ontario?
Lee: “As people become more aware of the healthful aspects of eating, organic farming will continue to grow. However, I’d like to see that growth accelerated and the support for organic farmers increased.”
Kennedy: “I support organic farming in Ontario because it promotes the mixed farm model that does not rely on inputs outside the farm for fertility and health on the farm. I think as consumers we should be focusing on sourcing local first, organic second.”
McEwan: “Organic farming in Ontario is superb. We are very fortunate to have local produce.”
Is there anything else you would like to add about the Ontario food and restaurant scene?
Lee: “When faced with a choice between buying Ontario products or those from the United States, I’d like to see the consumer choose to support our local farmers. For restaurants, it can sometimes be a challenge to support small-market farmers due to the volume of product they may need. I’d love to see an increase in the volume of specialty products available to Ontario chefs.”
Kennedy: (no)
McEwan: “I think we are at world level. Toronto is a hidden culinary treasure.”
Do you have any new projects on the horizon?
Lee: “Yes. Our new restaurant, Nota Bene, at 180 Queen St. West is slated for a summer 2008 opening.”
Kennedy: “To present a model in terroir based gastronomy on my farm. There will be a tavern, a dining room, a barn with some animals, a vineyard, and a vegetable and herb garden. One reason that I am excited about this project is that it will give young cooks within the organization the opportunity to experience first hand just what it takes to raise animals, to grow crops, to look after a vineyard. I think it will give them a valuable new perspective on the provenance of our food.”
McEwan: “I will be opening an upscale gourmet grocery store in the fall.”
Sidebar – The Chefs Bios
David Lee. British born Lee is the third generation of a family line of chefs. In London at the tender age of 17 he worked at the Hotel Intercontinental and went on to get a taste of cooking Michelin starred food at Le Soufflé. From there he went to Switzerland and the Hotel Fleur du Lac before being recruited by Anton Mosimann to work at his eponymous restaurant in 1992, rising quickly to the sous-chef position. At 24 he moved to Canada and was hired as chef de cuisine at Centro. By age 29 he’d teamed up with Yannick Bigourdan to acquire Splendido which re-opened in the fall of 2001 to much acclaim.
Jamie Kennedy. Kennedy is a George Brown College grad who went on to train as Journeyman Cook in Europe in the late seventies. He returned to Toronto to open the renowned Scaramouche heralded as a new phase in Canadian culinary history and then in 1985 Palmerston Restaurant. From 1994 to 2003 his unique cooking style became the distinguishing feature of J.K. ROM at The Royal Ontario Museum. In 2000 he published a cookbook, “Jamie Kennedy Seasons”. In 2003 he launched JK Kitchens on Church Street and in 2006 Jamie Kennedy at The Gardiner. A devout supporter of our ecological systems, Jamie has spoken for such causes as the Endangered Fish Alliance, World Wildlife Foundation, Living Ocean Society and Seafood Watch.
Mark McEwan. After a position as the youngest executive chef in Canada (at the Sutton Place Hotel) in the early eighties McEwan acquired Pronto Ristorante in 1985. His classic fine dining establishment North 44 on Yonge Street opened in 1989 and he expanded that operation to include North 44 Catering, a full catering service. He went on to relaunch Terra in 1996, open Bymark in the Toronto Dominion Centre in 2002 and two years later branched out into television when he began filming The Heat. It launched on Food Network Canada in October 2006. Never one to rest on his laurels he opened One in The Hazelton Hotel in 2007.
by Margaret Swaine | Apr 30, 2009
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by Margaret Swaine | Apr 1, 2009
Niagara Wine Route
If you plan on touring the lengthy Niagara Wine Route, a word of advice – give yourself plenty of time.
By Margaret Swaine (April 2009)
Late last summer I visited about 20 Niagara wineries in two and a half days, tasting most of what they had on offer. It was a crazy thing to do – the equivalent perhaps of playing 60 hours of non-stop speed golf except the tracks were through vineyards and instead of unerring hand-eye coordination, I needed my head and tongue to stay on the ball. Only professionals should attempt this.
The Niagara Wine Route starts about an hour’s drive from downtown Toronto and meanders along 40 kilometres of rural roads from Grimsby to Niagara-on-the-Lake. The Niagara Escarpment on one side and glittering Lake Ontario on the other, handsomely bracket the route.
We took exit 68 off the QEW highway and began our tour at Peninsula Ridge. Winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas was hired away from Domaine Laroche in Chablis France to come to Niagara and he makes inspired unoaked chardonnay, zingy sauvignon blanc and a winner of a syrah red. The wine tasting room is large and stocked with goodies and not to be missed is the charming restaurant in a restored Victorian home on the property.
After a quick tasting with Jean-Pierre we headed to Thirty Bench a short hop away on Mountain Road. The tasting room has been recently renovated and Lindsay Marcaccio greeted us with a “wine consultant experience” in the back room overlooking the vineyards. For ten bucks any visitor can get (as I did) a tasting of a personal choice of four wines including back vintages and icewine lead by one of the winery’s staff. It’s a real deal.
We continued further down the road to Mountain Road Vineyard where the tasting room is in the lower level of the house of winemaker/owner Steve Kocsis. Kocsis explained that he was in an area slated for housing development so couldn’t expand his winery or farm. Portable steel storage containers and trailers that held wine paraphernalia dotted the property. It was a sight and a testament to the small farmer’s tenacity. Best of all, Mountain Road had a vertical of icewines available from vintages 1999 to 2004.
Angel’s Gate on the same road was dramatically upscale in comparison. Picturesque grounds with flowers and fountains led to the large tasting room overlooking Lake Ontario. The lunch patio menu featured seasonally inspired tapa style dishes. We had a cheese plate of wonderful artisanal cheeses and breads to go with our wines as winemaker Philip Dowell lead a tasting of some fine wine.
Time for lunch next at the spectacular Vineland Estate also up the escarpment overlooking vineyards and Lake Ontario. Chef Jan-Willem Stulp outlined his thematic in-season approach to cooking using as many local ingredients as possible. His “Local Food Plus” menu names the farms where he sources his produce. I recommend the Cro farm quail dish.
No visit to this part of Niagara (now called Twenty Valley) would be complete without visiting Flat Rock Cellars, home to great pinot noir and just as good pinot noir vinegar. The vinegar was, not surprisingly, sold out but President Ed Madronich was there to crack open some great Nadja’s vineyard wines and tell us about his “In the Winemaker’s Boots” program. Madronich hosts this educational wine series that’s like reality TV in the vineyards except without the cameras. The full day hands-on sessions take place four times a year at the winery and during harvest season, has the participants picking grapes.
The next stop, Rockway Glen, features an 18-hole golf course as well as a winery and was a must on my tour. What I didn’t know about but was delighted to discover, was their unique 19th Century Antique Wine Museum just created about a year and a half ago.
Further down the back roads at Short Hills Bench is the historic Henry of Pelham winery with its wine tasting room housed in what was the cellar of an 1842 former inn, carriage house and horse shed. The three Speck brothers, who own and run Pelham, were busy with the building of a new 7,000 square foot underground wine cellar.
We were late getting to Cave Springs in tiny historic Jordan Village but I did manage to snag a tasting with VP and co-owner Tom Pennachetti. As I sipped the minerally delicious Riesling Dolomite, toasty rich CSV Chardonnay and other wines Tom told me about the golf packages that Cave Springs offers with nearby golf courses such as Peninsula Lakes and Lookout Point. We were able to continue sampling Cave Spring wines at their On the Twenty restaurant overlooking Twenty Mile Creek. Following an exhausting but thrilling day, we overnighted across the street at the Inn on the Twenty, a charming property owned by Cave Springs that has the best accommodation in the area.
In the morning we headed to Chateau des Charmes near the teensy town of St. Davids. The winery’s grand French chateau inspired building is a local landmark and home to many excellent wines. Founder and oenologist Paul Bosc senior is a viticultural pioneer and has isolated new clones of grapes such as Gamay Droit. His 47 year old son Paul Bosc Junior led us through an impressive tasting.
Coyote’s Run Estate was a picture in contrast – a small, cute little house-like winery with hand-crafted wines and a picnic place out back. On the 60 acres property there are two very distinct soil types one with a reddish colour and the other blackish. Hence wines from the particular soils are called respectively Red Paw and Black Paw. I loved the Black Paw Pinot Noir and the Red Paw Syrah.
Wineries can’t get much smaller or exclusive than family run Cattail Creek which sells their less than 2,000-case production from the winery only. The Dyck family does own a lot of vineyards but most of the grapes go to others. Third generation Roselyn whispered to me “We go grocery shopping in our own vineyards” meaning they keep the best for their own tiny production. The intensity and great length of the Riesling Reserve tells me she may be telling the truth.
We went next for lunch in the fancy dining room of Peller Estates where Chef Jason Parsons does magic with local produce. Peller is the largest of the 18 wineries in the town district of Niagara-on-the-Lake. The restaurant at Peller and sister winery Hillebrand under Chef Frank Dodd offer haute cuisine of the best kind and I always try to visit one or the other or both. Wines such as Peller’s Gamay 2006 Private Reserve also give much satisfaction.
No time to linger though as it was on to Reif Estate. Reif has recently expanded and has a wine sensory garden where I saw and rubbed herbs invocative of the scents of wines. At the sensory wine bar Reif offered several wine tasting experiences such as “Through the Cellar Door” to showcase differences in oak and Wine and Cheese which pairs the two. I chose to do the “Terroir” and taste the differences of grapes grown in different soils.
Nearby Konzelmann had also expanded recently and had a spanking new tasting room. Assistant winemaker Eric Pearson took me through a tasting that included the great value Pinot Blanc 2007 and Merlot 2007 as well as the consumer friendly White and Red Moose labels.
The stunning contemporary visuals of Stratus Winery take the breath away and we were already a bit breathless from our schedule on the run. However we did manage to settle down enough to hear about their innovative gravity flow and environmentally sustainable winery. Winemaker J-L Groux believes in “assembling” wines from a blend of grapes and his very best wines mix a host of varietals to get great complexities. Stratus offers tasting flights and small seminars about wine but even if you don’t want to learn it’s worth a visit to see the place.
Finally we called it a day and headed to Riverbend Inn, a stately 1860’s Georgian Mansion that’s been converted into 21 unique guest rooms. For dinner at the inn, I picked locally grown Dave’s greens and the cast iron roast squab, a hearty flavourful dish and matched it with a Riverbend wine made for the inn by Reif.
The final day in Niagara was an easy half day with golf in the afternoon. First to Inniskillin, the winery which heralded in the new era of Ontario winemaking in 1975 when it was granted the first winery licence in Ontario since 1929. Founding partners Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser have sold their interests but the winery continues to expand and bloom. The tour options here are varied. In the Riedel Tasting Room you can sample wines served in specific crystal glasses designed and shaped for each type of wine. Should you decide to buy the glasses the cost of the tasting goes toward the price. Their outdoor piazza offers picnic tables and in the large demo kitchen there are monthly wine and food pairings. I went for the dedicated icewine bar as Inniskillin is also famous for their much awarded riesling icewine.
Southbrook was the last but not least stop. This new winery built to environmentally positive LEED standards and designed by Jack Diamond is an architectural marvel. “Nothing leaves this property that you can’t drink,” says their talented and experienced winemaker Anne Sperling. A patio with wood burning pizza oven adds to the charming and tasty experience.
We weren’t hungry but had to stop at Stone Road Grill because it’s such a fantastic place for a meal. In a tiny strip mall with a funny sign that says “REST” on it (ask for the story at the restaurant), it’s the go to place for local winemakers and residents. Chef Ryan Crawford does wonderful things with charcuterie, local lamb (from the fields at Featherstone Winery), house made preserves and much more. The wine list is extensive and includes a few labels at least from most all of the Niagara region’s wineries. I even got to make my own spun maple sugar cotton candy in the kitchen.
Finally it was time to golf at the country’s oldest golf course built in 1894. The facilities were recently bought from the membership by John Wiens, who’s also owner of the Riverbend Inn and he’s polished things up. Fort Niagara, Fort Mississauga and Fort George can be seen from the course. Sitting on the patio by the Lake after a fun nine holes was the perfect end to a wild wine tour.
Margaret Swaine has toured the globe many times over as a journalist, wine and restaurant critic and feature writer. An avid golfer, her features often combine food, wine and spirits with golf and travel.
by Margaret Swaine | Feb 1, 2009
Prince Edward County Wines (Zoomer Magazine Winter 2009)
The lure of Prince Edward County is like the siren’s song, irresistible to chefs, farmers, winemakers… READ MORE
The Grape Ones (The 3 Niagara Wineries)
Ontario’s winery scene has blossomed with a number of cool, new wineries opening up shop the past few years. READ MORE
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Canadian Icewines
The mere idea of picking grapes in the dead of a Canadian winter’s night in below-freezing weather may make your blood run cold. READ MORE
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