MELANGE MAGAZINE: Southern Florida Frugal Traveler

by Margaret Swaine | Sep 1, 2005

The South Florida Frugal Traveler
By Margaret Swaine

(Melange Magazine, Fall 2005)

There are two basic truths to travel anywhere. You need to walk the streets to really know a place. And traveling frugal doesn’t mean traveling poor. A five star experience can be found for a three star price if you’re travel savvy. At least that’s how I see it from my lifetime of traveling and writing about it. Where best to prove the point but southeast Florida, a place known for both costly glitz and down market cheap vacations depending upon the area. I started this trip in Fort Lauderdale, a city that has worked diligently to shed its spring break status for a better clientele and image. Then I was on to Miami and down to Florida’s Keys. I’d been to all these places before but this time proved the greatest fun at the best price.

If you can choose your vacation dates and like a bargain, travel during the off or shoulder seasons. Also quite frankly it’s fun to be loved for just showing up. Peak times in Florida are the winter months. The rest of the year deals can be found everywhere and while it’s hot, perhaps even steamy with humidity, the rest of America is pretty much in the same boat. For this trip I chose to go in late June when the weather was a sultry high eighties tempered by quick cooling showers that blew through as fast as they blew in.

My goal for lodgings was to find unique classy properties at a price tag of $200 or less a night. The internet was my secret weapon and often listed better prices than available by calling the hotels’ front desks. I was delighted to find the Superior Small Lodging program of Greater Fort Lauderdale, which listed over 85 accommodations of 50 or fewer rooms that meet a high independently judged standard. The Pillars at New River Sound, a Small Luxury Hotel of the World property caught my eye. It had all desires covered: a location on the Intracoastal Waterway with its own water taxi stop, a mere block walk from the beach, tropical landscape surrounding its pool and a landmark 1939 pedigree with fully restored rooms in British Colonial/Island Plantation themes.

My first day at the inn, I walked the boardwalk by the beach. And what a walk it was. As I strolled along I saw a wedding on the sand, complete with white tuxedoed men and ladies in pastels. A Honduran kid climbed a coconut tree in front of me and cut down a nut in three seconds flat. Several tattooed tubs of lard roared by on Harleys and on the sidewalk a frail lady in a motorized wheelchair breezed by at a good clip. There were rollerbladers, sun worshippers, Segway scooter drivers, joggers, power walkers, smooching lovers and teens with matching swim team t-shirts all enjoying the miles and miles of boardwalk and sandy beach. In the heavily populated areas of the 23 miles of beach, every few blocks I saw outdoor showers for rinsing sand, lifeguard huts and various vendors.

That evening I went to Blue Moon, a seafood restaurant by the Intracoastal waters. Locals steered me to it, telling me about the fabulous Sunday brunch, the two for one specials and great atmosphere. A happening place it had friendly staff and inventive, fresh fish dishes. As I munched on Hawaiian spiked Tuna poke served in a martini glass, I chatted with my companions at the large glossy wood bar. Anka, the gorgeous blond Norwegian bartender was excited she was going to be an extra on Miami Vice the next day. The love of a man brought her to Fort Lauderdale. The place kept her enthralled after the marriage ended. Along with the other locals she kept saying, “We are very very spoiled here”. On the way home I stopped at Beach Place, loud with music and people enjoying themselves at Hooters and other chain restaurants. From there I walked along Ocean Drive to the start of Los Olas Boulevard passing by bars and dining spots, their music and outdoor seating spilling out into the night air. At Margarita’s Café I downed a shot from among their 100 tequilas and called it a night though not by necessity. In this party town, bars stay open until 4 a.m.

Much of Fort Lauderdale is land reclaimed by dredging out channels through a mangrove swamp once teaming with alligators. Today multimillion dollar mansions perch by the waterways on thin strips of gardens and lawns in this Venice of America. The best deal for a tour of this aqueous paradise is the five dollar all-day pass for the water taxi. The taxis, 27 to 70 seat water buses, travel canals and rivers of the Intracoastal waters from early morning to late evening allowing passengers to embark and disembark at as many of the 20 stops as desired. It’s much more than transport – it’s corny but funny entertainment. On the half hour trip I took to Los Olas Boulevard shopping district captain Jim amused us with the gossip on the famous residents’ homes as we cruised by. “There’s Lee Major’s former house – he split with Farrah Fawcett before the couple even moved in. Took him two years to sell the place. Seems no one wanted a house without a faucet.” Those kinds of jokes. While movie stars still reside here, fortunes from family businesses have bought many of the spectacular properties for instance Wells Fargo, Oscar Meyer Wieners, Blockbuster Films and LA Fitness.

Las Olas Boulevard (means the wave), an historic palm tree and bougainvillea lined street in the downtown area has “Old Florida” charm, designer shops, elegant restaurants and plenty of outdoor café seating. I disembarked here and headed to Johnny V’s, the hottest newest dining spot in town. The thing about Fort Lauderdale is you could be sitting by a guy in jeans who just stepped off his 40 million dollar yacht. As I enjoyed my grilled spiced shrimp on rock shrimp potato salad I played spot the multimillionaires. The laid back atmosphere is quite unlike the Miami Beach show and be seen. There was no telling.

To get a better look at the yachts, I wandered along the nearby Riverwalk promenade. Here boats of all sizes cruise The New River gliding by the performing arts centers, opera and concert halls and restaurants. A bustling area, it also has a water taxi stop so I took my own cruise back to The Pillars this time entertained by crewman Bob. “The only cheap things on the water are the taxis and my jokes,” he began.

To get to Miami the next day, I took the A1A a pretty route in-between the ocean and the Intracoastal Waterway. In under an hour I was in the heart of the art deco section of South Beach. Tropical SoBe is the centre of Florida nightlife, beautiful people, fashion and famous. It failed as a coconut plantation – its first incarnation – but as a beach destination, it excels. A pervasive Latino culture from the many Cubans and South Americans gives it a soul that’s extroverted, passionate and sexy. I needed my shades for the sun and to cover my eyes from the exuberance of exposed flesh – washboard stomachs, busting out busts, curvaceous butts and on certain northern sections of the beach, fully naked bodacious bodies. Whew it was enough to drive me to diet. My hotel, The Bentley was a quiet serene oasis in the heart of the action on Ocean Drive. It had a celebrity clientele, a discrete second floor lobby, large elegantly furnished rooms and a roof top pool with a view to the ocean.

That night I walked a gauntlet of restaurants and people so jammed onto the sidewalks that I was weaving between diners, strollers, hawkers and vendors for many blocks. Restaurants were shilling customers with mock ups of various dishes such as monster langoustines; others had musicians as the lure. Enterprising hustlers had parrots and boa constrictors tourists could perch on their shoulders or around their neck for a Kodak moment. Lincoln Road, my destination, is a pedestrian Mall which had its own crowd enjoying the cafés, posh shops, ice cream parlors, bars and eateries. All were open late into the night in this city that never sleeps.

I chose to eat at Doraku, Miami’s Nobu minus the attitude and price. Here the emphasis is on sushi rolls, something Americans have come to love. The brainchild of Kevin, a son of Rocky Aoki the founder of Benihana restaurants in America, its happy hour features two for one appetizers and drinks. On Friday when they bring out the free sushi buffet, you can’t get near the place. The last Thursday of every month they hold sushi and sake tasting dinners to showcase some of their 20 handpicked special sakes. I missed the date but was able to approximate the experience by ordering one of their tasting sampler flights of three sakes (two ounces each).

On my walk back to the hotel, I bypassed the rocking nightclub scene on parts of Washington Avenue, Collins and Ocean Drive. Even with the offers of free entrance as a woman, I decided I was having too good a time just checking out the many bars and people watching.

Day four I took a short drive through downtown old Miami and Little Havana to Coral Gables. This financial and business centre has great shopping and some fine dining. Chispa, a contemporary Latin restaurant, came highly recommended. The first generation Cubans have Calle Ocho and Café Versailles as a place to hang out and feel at home. But the second generation are hip, Americanized, looking for more sophisticated and urban cooking. Chispa (means spark in Spanish) with Cuban ownership and cuisine by hot American chefs Robbin Haas and Adam Votaw, takes the heritage and knocks it up many notches. There’s plantain, ceviches, suckling pig, empanadas, crispy tacos all imaginatively and perfectly prepared. My ceviche was mahi mahi marinated in ginger and soya sauce with coconut slivers. The suckling pig came as thin crust pizza with blue cheese, figs and caramelized onions. The empanada was chorizo sausage encased in a crispy hot corn flour. Every morsel was so delicious, when Votaw told me they planned to take the concept to other parts of America, I cheered.

After a quick diversion to nearby Merrick Park to catch the sales in the many luxury shops of this Mediterranean style shopping village, I headed back to SoBe to walk the boardwalk and beach. North from my hotel the walk took me from the Ocean Drive part of the beach to the wooded boardwalks behind many of the famous Collins Avenue hotels. They back onto the beach but can’t own any of it. That’s for everyone to enjoy. The hotels however looked so fabulous in their art deco splendor I decided I had to enter a few. The Sagamore was chic and oh so cool with its white on white décor and collection of fine modern art. The newest on Ocean Drive, The Victor was a knock-out marrying its 1930’s Art Deco with Parisian bold deep colors and style. Vix, their restaurant with its illuminated jellyfish tanks, shimmering gauze curtains and cozy banquettes, has already made a name for itself. Further down the road the Savoy had spacious modern rooms with kitchens and direct beach access. Across the road in SoFi (south of Fifth Street), The Wave offered Art Deco for those on a tight budget. It was like touring museums and art galleries but more fun and free. Only dinner kept me from visiting more.

Mark’s South Beach, is one of the four Florida restaurants owned by celebrity chef Mark Militello. He’s one of four guru chefs collectively known as the “Mango Gang”, who gave birth to Miami’s own style of cooking in the early nineties: a fusion of Latin American and Caribbean flavors with classic European techniques. This American contemporary cuisine really put Miami on the gastronomic map. While Militello is more often at his Las Olas restaurant in Fort Lauderdale where he lives, his trademark dishes are superbly rendered by executive chef Larry LaValley at Mark’s South Beach. From the diver scallop on purée of calabaza starter to the mojo pork on sweet plantain mash with calaboo and the finisher of home made sorbets and molten chocolate dessert; my meal was a culinary triumph. Mark’s and over 40 other top restaurants offer special meal deals (dinner specials at $29.95) during Miami Spice a two month long promotion that starts August 1st.

On the road the next day I headed down South Dixie to Highway 1 which would take me through the Florida Keys. This meant I would drive right past one of the best old fashioned southern barbeque diners. Shorty’s Bar-B-Q served its first customer in 1951. The décor hasn’t changed much – long wooden picnic style tables on concrete floors – and thankfully neither has the food. There was a line-up at this log cabin building even before noon. The smoked slow-cooked ribs and chicken were the real goods – tender, succulent with great grilled flavor. The prices were also old time. Quarter chicken with fries, cole slaw and garlic bread went for $3.49. I could see why generations of Miami residents and visitors, both poor and rich flock here.

When I reached Key Largo a world class diving destination, made rightfully famous in songs, I tuned into oldies but goodies on the radio and settled in for a picturesque two hour drive to Key West. The “Overseas” Highway 1 crosses 43 bridges, including one that’s seven miles long, as it completes the stretch between dozens of small islands to end more than 100 miles into the open seas. One on side of the road is the Atlantic Ocean and on the other the Gulf of Mexico. Its end is the southernmost tip of United States, a mere 90 miles from Cuba by boat.

Commercial fishing is the second largest industry in the Keys. Residents born in the island chain are known as conchs, after the mollusk that used to be abundantly fished in the Keys. The moniker Conch Republic is the affection term for the area. Stone crabs are still harvested and so are pink shrimp as well as many types of scale fish. As a seafood lover, I knew I was in for some treats. Meanwhile I passed by a number of Key Lime pie outlets – another area specialty though key limes are no longer grown commercially in the Keys. But enough about food when there’s such beauty and history all around.

The Keys were first sighted by adventurer Ponce de Leon in 1513. Later pirates found refuge here and settlers farmed in the early 1800’s. Wreckers made fortunes salvaging goods from ships that went down on the reefs and in the mid-19th century sponge harvesting was a lucrative industry. Now more than three million tourists arrive each year, an equally good money maker. More interesting though, the varied history and laid back subtropical atmosphere gives rise to very colorful residents. Life is different here. As one Miami resident told me, “Once you’re past Marathon, things get weird.” (The area is divided into five regions namely Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key and Key West.)

I’d been to Key West before many years ago with my mother and we’d been refused entrance in a restaurant called La te da because they were having a tea dance for men only. Would it be still there? I was looking forward to the adventure. Once I arrived at this tiny two-by-four mile island, I headed for the end of Duval Street where my Southernmost House for the night was located. There was a confusion of signs proclaiming “southernmost” for an inn, hotel, motel, and beach front property some of which looked depressingly modern for an old town. Finally I sighted the House and it was all it billed itself to be – the Southernmost House Grand Hotel and Museum. Built in 1896 it had grandeur, a museum of artifacts in its halls showcasing original letters and signatures from every US president, a location on the water at the southernmost tip of the island and much more. My room was large with a tasteful modern marble bathroom, antique furniture and a private balcony with an awesome view of the ocean and hotel pool. Then there was the bonus of the Key West quirkiness such as the 24 pet bunny rabbits hopping around the back yard and pool area, the Carson City Saloon Bar circa 1839 purchased at auction, used as the pool bar now and the museum status which brought tourists wandering in off the streets on a regular basis.

Of all places, this town begged to be walked despite the Old Town Trolley Fleet, Bone Island Shuttles and Conch Tour Trains on offer to tourists. At day’s end there’s a daily sunset celebration when musicians, jugglers, mimes and various artists perform in Mallory Square. A hike to the other end of Duval Street, the town’s main drag, would get me there in easy time if I wasn’t distracted. I walked by a “rub” club for men, then saw La te da, now offering a drag show on one floor and a piano bar on the ground level. I couldn’t resist entering Senses at Play, a photography shop displaying beautiful erotic photos on the walls. Former headhunters from Philadelphia, John and Bernadette McCall opened the gallery about a year ago and specialize in shooting couples in nude sensual positions. They manage to capture sensuality in every shape, figure and age. No wonder their product is proving to be extremely popular with regular folks. “A couple we just shot was from Missouri. They never thought they’d do this ever” said John.

Rub, drag and shoot – eating had to be next. Locals raved about Mangoes and so I went. In the centre of Duval Street with both indoor and outdoor seating, it was a great spot for people watching. Chef Paul Orchard started with the place when it opened 14 years ago and he has the touch. My wild mushroom appetizer and fresh caught yellow tail snapper with passion fruit beurre blanc were so good I recommended them to the Italian gay guys in matching tattoos next to me. This is also a town which spirits haunt so I had to do the night time ghost tour. It was corny but full of good yarns with a base of truth. Ask town folks about Robert the doll and about the radiologist with his undying love affair with a corpse. And speaking of ghosts – I saw plenty of Hemmingway. Seems there’s an annual Hemmingway look alike contest in honor of this famous writer’s residence in Key West (his former home is open for visits) and many people stay in character in-between contests.

Before I left Key West for my final destination in southeast Florida I skipped the boring American breakfast and found Conch and the Cuban, a delightful little outdoor joint with the best fresh grouper on toasted Cuban bread (yes they also served eggs, omelets, sandwiches and more). At Hawk’s Cay I just made it in time for the dolphin swim organized by Dolphin Connection. After a 15 minute talk about dolphins the six of us who had signed for the program had a magical half hour interaction with these intelligent mammals. We hugged, kissed, held, petted and played with our new friends. They seemed to like it as much as we did (but then they got fish snacks for every interaction).

Hawk’s Cay resort is a sprawling family style resort on a sixty acre island at Duck Key, just south of Marathon in the middle of the Keys. It’s a paradise for water sports of all sorts. My last night I felt it important to sit outdoors and watch the sun go down as I dined. Water’s Edge restaurant gave me my sunset experience. It was about 80 miles to the closest shopping mall and a two hour drive to Miami airport. The world was as far away as my cares yet close enough to be practical.

Pack Your Bags
Florida general tourist information: www.visitflorida.com
Fort Lauderdale information: www.sunny.org
Miami information: www.MiamiandBeaches.com
The Keys: www.fla-keys.com
Hertz car rental: www.hertz.com
(All of my hotels had rooms under $200 during non-peak seasons)
The Pillars: www.pillarshotel.com
The Bentley: www.thebentleyhotels.com
The Southernmost House: www.SouthernmostHouse.com
Hawk’s Cay: www.hawkscay.com

Restaurants: Blue Moon www.bluemoonfishco.com Johnny V’s www.johnnyvlasolas.com Doraku www.dorakusushi.com Chispa www.chisparestaurant.com Mark’s South Beach www.chefmark.com Shorty’s www.shortysbbq.com Mangos www.mangoeskeywest.com

100 best things to do in Florida (Courtesy of Your RV Lifestyle) 100 best things to do in Florida

OTTAWA CITIZEN: Going Sideways in the County

by Margaret Swaine | Jul 9, 2005

Going Sideways in the County
By Margaret Swaine

(Ottawa Citizen, July 9, 2005)

You’ve seen the movie Sideways. Or at least you heard about the romp through the California vineyards by two aging college buddies. Winery visits helped them escape their disappointing lives, find romance – both good and bad – and brought them more adventure than they hoped. You can do your own version just a few hours away in Prince Edward County minus the pretension and illegal activities. The romance is up to you.

The “County” has expanded from a solitary winery in 2000 to nine now open to the public and more on the way. PEC already has a wine route in place, wineries with dining on premises and a “Taste Trail”. All the ingredients for a good weekend cruise through the vineyards of this bucolic virtual island (a canal cuts the isthmus from the mainland).

While today’s wineries are freshly planted, the area has always been an agricultural haven. Its watery surroundings, namely its numerous bays and Lake Ontario, temper the climate just enough for fruit orchards and vegetables. The first wave of European immigrants were Empire Loyalists who settled here over two hundred years ago. By the early 1800’s they were well into farming. A saying of the times was “wheat bought the farm, barley paid the mortgage”. There was even a winery in the 1870’s in Hillier.

The first modern day vineyard was planted in 1993 in Waupoos. The diverse limestone soils are exciting to today’s wine growers – especially those keen on pinot noir and other cool climate varieties. Now there are about 550 acres under vine and a dozen operating wineries. Influential Canadians drawn to pioneer winemaking in this new wine region include chef Jamie Kennedy, winemaker Deborah Paskus, Imax filmmaker James Lahti and TV/film producer Seaton McLean and actress wife Sonja Smits. Still there are some thorns in this bed of roses. The winters can be cold enough to kill vines and the growers often have to bury their plants to protect them. Jeff Innes, the winemaker at The Grange, told me that thanks to the nasty 2004 winter, “Every vine above the dirt is dead.” Spring frost can be as late as mid-May and the first fall frost as early as mid-October. This makes the growing season the shortest of Ontario’s viticultural areas.

Day One. Get off the QEW at Kingston and take the beautiful Loyalist Parkway (Highway 33) to the Glenora Ferry (it runs every 15 minutes and is free). On the other side of the bay, you’ll connect to County Road 7 for a picturesque drive overlooking the waters of Adolphus Reach and loop around onto route 8 to find County Cider Company, the first winery (albeit apple) in the region. Poised atop a limestone shingle ridge, it has great views of South Bay and Waupoos Island.

County Cider Company winery store and tasting room is located in a restored 1832 stone barn. The family house on the property is a Regency style 1837 historical landmark. (The property has an illustrious past. Sir John A Macdonald held the first mortgage on the land.) Take advantage of their million dollar view overlooking Lake Ontario by sipping a cider sitting on their outdoor patio (BBQ light lunches are served). Their delicious hard apple ciders are made from 11 different varieties of apple, six of them European cider apples which add a great complexity and depth of flavour. Their “champagne” method sparkling cider is so good it constantly sells out and the county premium is dry and refreshing. They also make an award winning ice cider, made from apples frozen on the trees and pressed in that state. While cider master Grant Howes and family have tended the orchards for over 25 years, their chardonnay, Geisenheim, zweigelt, pinot noir and gamay grape vines were just planted in 1999. Their first vintage was released in 2002 and wine still is only 10 per cent of the production. After five years experience, Howes feels chardonnay and pinot noir are the best bets because they really respond to his limestone soil.

Down the road from County Cider, in the mouth of Prince Edward Bay overlooking Lake Ontario, is the first grape winery of PEC, Waupoos Estates (Waupoos is an aboriginal word for running rabbit and also means “big chief” in a spiritual way). From the back balcony of the wine store you have a wonderful view of gardens, vineyards and the Lake. “We started the mad wine business here,” said owner Ed Neuser. He bought the property originally as a weekend retreat and since it had an apple orchard he tried his luck with apples. After ten years, in 1992 after a night of pondering about the farm over a bottle of wine or two, he decided vineyards were the way to go. He consulted with friend and Niagara winery owner Klaus Reif and chose his grapes, starting with vidal in 1993 and then trying 12 different varieties to see what would grow. Not only did vines grow but so did tourism. “On a long weekend five years ago we’d see three or four strange cars and wonder what’s happening,” he added noting that now there’s a constant stream of visitors – in the high summer season over 10,000 a month. He sells a healthy 50,000 bottles out of his wine store. The great majority of his wines are from his own vineyards. Join the crowd and taste samples of chardonnay, vidal, St. Laurent, gewürztraminer and baco noir. Young gals and light drinkers are fond of his Honeysuckle, a blend of white hybrids and French Canadians really take to his red hybrid blend called Pearl Noir. Take your lunch in the gazebo shaped restaurant, a separate small building among the vineyards. It seats 60 outside but only 36 inside. Be aware just those with reservations are guaranteed an indoor table if it rains.

Next stop Long Dog Vineyards & Winery named after the owners dachshunds. You’ll find them on Brewers Road just off county road 10, four kilometres south of Milford. They have vineyards of pinot noir, pinot gris, gamay and chardonnay. Half of the production is pinot noir, their specialty – so take note Sideways fans. “We’re still the only winery in the county that produces one hundred per cent from our own vineyards,”
said James Lahti, one of the owners and an IMAX filmmaker. Lahti struggles with getting the best out of the heartbreak grape pinot noir. The 2003 vintage was so difficult “I was ready to shoot myself” he said. However the pinot turned out “not bad at all” he said adding that his 2004 vintage “is spectacular”. While most lost entire fields of pinot noir in the past few brutal winters, Long Dog’s all survived. After seven years tending his vines, Lahti said, “My head’s not in the sand anymore, my canes are. We bury 25,000 vines.” Their tasting room is a beautifully renovated old 1860’s apple barn. Across the road is the winery with its storage area in a former pig barn. His pinot noir and pinot grigio sell fast but he’s also proud of his gamay and his Long Dog rosé, a blend of mainly pinot noir and gamay with ten per cent each of chardonnay and pinot gris.

The final stop of the day is Black Prince Winery located just outside of Picton on the Loyalist Parkway. It’s the brain child of John Sambrook, general manager of The Opimian Society, Canada’s largest wine club founded in 1973. Black Prince is an invented name coming from research on the Royal “Edwards” in British history. Edward “The Black Prince” was the son of King Edward III and a legendary jouster. In his honour the winery holds a jousting show, scheduled to run every year on Father’s Day weekend. This year’s event drew 600 spectators to watch “Knights in armor” try to knock each other off their steeds. Of course the Black Prince won. The winery grows seven varieties of grapes. Among their 100 per cent County wines are a chardonnay, auxerrois and cabernet franc.

Day Two: Start your day at the new state-of-the-art Huff Estates on County Road 1 just five minutes from Bloomfield. This multi-million dollar winery has all the accoutrements for fine wine – gravity fed cellar, stainless steel tanks and oak barrels. It also has the more fanciful such as an outdoor patio surrounded by a moat with a waterfall where light lunches are served catered by Kingston based Affordable Gourmet. There’s an observation deck that overlooks the vineyard property and even a helicopter landing pad. Plantings include pinot gris, chardonnay, vidal and at their South Bay vineyards cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot gris. Owner Lanny Huff is a local gent whose family has been in the County since the 1820’s. He’s building a 20 room luxury inn on the property with decks overlooking the vineyard. Scheduled opening for The Inn at Huff Estates is this November. Sample their pure Prince Edward County grown pinot gris and cabernet franc rosé on the patio and observe the action.

Next head further east on County Road 1 to The Grange on Closson Road near Hillier. Housed in a restored loyalist barn circa 1830, it’s surrounded by a pretty landscape of rolling vineyards, old country laneways and wetlands. The estate’s first vines were in the ground in 2001, but the winery only opened to the public last June. It’s a family affair. Former Ford model Caroline Granger left the Paris high life to join her Bay Street lawyer father (Bob Granger) assuming the role of president of the winery. Her Dior gowns and Manolos have been replaced with plastic spray suits and rubber boots but she digs it. “I grew up on a farm,” said Granger “for me it’s like coming full circle.” Wine maker Jeff Innes who has been there since the first vintage buys Niagara fruit to augment what he can grow. “We did get some pinot gris, chardonnay, riesling and melon de Bourgogne from our property” said Innes talking about the last vintage. However most of it is blended with Niagara fruit at this point. They serve a light lunch catered by the Devonshire Inn in nearby Wellington.

Your third stop of the day is for lunch and tasting at Carmela Estates winery with its delightful gardens and restaurant Vines, overlooking the vineyard. If you’re partial to chess you can even play on the enormous outside board with its two feet high Kings and Queens. Carmela first produced under the name Peddlesden named after minority owner Mike Peddlesden, now working at The Grange. South African born wine maker Norm Hardie is a former Four Seasons sommelier who went on to produce wines in South Africa, New Zealand, Burgundy and elsewhere before returning to Canada. On the estate grounds are riesling, chardonnay, pinot gris, pinot noir and cabernet franc grapes. However because of winter kill, only their 2002 cabernet franc is pure Prince Edward County grapes. Others like the riesling, for example, are blends of County with Niagara grapes. Niagara grapes will always be their back-up plan according to Hardie. “We are at a viticultural edge,” he explained. He feels his cabernet franc is a great indicator of what’s going to come from the County. (Look for Hardie’s own winery due to open in September).

Call it a day at By Chadsey’s Cairns Winery on Loyalist Parkway, just five kilometres west of Wellington. This 200 year old farm has its winery in a little brick building circa 1840’s. The name comes from the elaborate stone fence build by an original settler Ira Chadsey. Partners in marriage and with the winery, Richard Johnston, a former educator and MPP and psychotherapist Vida Zalnieriunas handle much of the winery work themselves. Zalnieriunas said the job as wine maker has fallen to her, “just because I’m more meticulous….I never thought I’d know how to do parts per million calculations”.

For whites they grow riesling, chardonnay, chenin blanc, gewürztraminer and muscat for blending. In reds they have pinot noir, gamay and St. Laurent. They’ve pioneered a system which adds a gold sticker to the label of one hundred per cent County grapes so look for the gold.

If you have the energy to keep going, the newest winery to open to the public is Closson Chase partially owned by Sonja Smits with wine making done by the talented Deborah Paskus. But give it another few months and Norman Hardie and Rosehall Run wineries will be open to the public as well as the new Inn at Huff Estates. A return visit will always find further delights as long as you haven’t burnt your bridges like the Sideways boys.

Grape varieties
Know your grapes and you’ll be on the way to knowing your wines. Here are some of the locally grown wine grapes in PEC. (Many wineries also import grapes from Niagara to augment their supply. For example chardonnay, riesling and cabernet are grown in PEC but are also among the imports.)
Whites
Chardonnay: famous in Burgundy, easy to enjoy varietal that can be oak aged or not therefore styles range from buttery, toasty to crisply fruity.
Riesling: classic noble European variety can make bone dry to dessert sweet styles – in dry versions look for crisp, racy character with citrus and mineral flavours.
Gewürztraminer: love or hate this European varietal for its distinctive perfumed lychee fruit flavours and soft acidity.
Auxerrois: particularly enjoyed in northern France, similar to pinot blanc, quite neutral with a good body.
Pinot Gris: aromatic European varietal, sometimes spicy with a body that can be cool climate crisp to quite full and soft when fully ripened.
Geisenheim: hybrid grape with one parent riesling so has some of the characteristics.
Seyval Blanc: French-American hybrid at its worse weedy, at its best crisply pleasant.
Vidal: hybrid with a high natural acidity that makes great ice wines.
Chenin Blanc: famous in The Loire, versatile, it can be made in all levels of sweetness starting at bone dry – look for floral, quince and honey notes that linger in the best.
Reds
Pinot Noir: temperamental Burgundian variety difficult to grow and vinify, made famous by Sideways – considered a great hope for PEC – at its best expect earthy flavours of sour cherry, strawberry.
Baco Noir: hybrid produced from French variety folle blanche and American vitis riparia – tends to be full bodied, deep coloured with high acidity and muscular tannins.
St. Laurent: robust early ripening grape related to pinot noir but without the finesse – tends towards deep colours, fruity flavours and low tannins.
De Chaunac: French-American hybrid with mild tannin levels and fruity character.
Gamay: famed grape of Beaujolais, France – charming, fruity with relatively high acidity.
Cabernet Franc: close cousin of cabernet sauvignon this Bordeaux varietal has adapted well to Canada – tends to be less tannic than its cousin with flavours of raspberry, currants and herbs.

Wineries
1. County Cider Company Estate Winery: Shingle Ridge Vineyard, County Road 8 (657 Bongards Crossroad) 613-476-1022 www.countycider.com
2. Waupoos Estates Winery: 3016 County Road 8 Waupoos ON 613-476-8338 www.waupooswinery.com
3. Long Dog Vineyards and Winery Inc: 104 Brewers Road 613-476-2921 
4. Black Prince Winery: 13370 Loyalist Parkway, Picton 613-476-4888 www.blackprincewinery.com
5. Huff Estates Inc: 2274 County Road 1, Bloomfield 613-393-5802 www.huffestates.com
6. The Grange of Prince Edward Inc. Estate Winery: 990 Closson Road, Hillier 613-399-1048 www.thegrangewines.com
7. Carmela Estates Winery: 1186 Greer Road, Wellington 613-399-3939 www.carmelaestates.com
8. By Chadsey’s Cairns Winery & Vineyard: 17432 Loyalist Parkway, Wellington 613-399-2992 www.bychadseyscairns.com