by Margaret Swaine | Jan 1, 2003
Vodka
Poland was the birthplace of vodka over 600 years ago. On this side of the Atlantic, vodka was virtually unknown until 50 years ago. In crossing the ocean, the distillate traditionally drunk straight up and prized for its distinctive taste in northern Europe was transformed into a characterless mixer. No more. The pendulum has swung back to interesting ultra premium, ultra smooth vodkas distilled from rye, wheat, potatoes or even beets. Flavoured vodkas include those enhanced with citrus peels, melon, vanilla, peppers, berries and on.
Belvedere Vodka ****
437772 $39.95 Poland
A all rye, four times distilled, charcoal filtered premium product in a frosted bottle etched with a view of Poland’s presidential palace. Sweetly gentle with a clean citrus essence.
Grey Goose Vodka ****
547661 $39.95 France
Genté spring water filtered through the limestone of Champagne, distilled in a five step process that begins in copper pot stills. Special purity with hints of minerals in the smooth, gently fruity, silky textured taste. Look for their orange flavour and other versions being released on the market.
Pearl vodka ****
574996 $35.35 Canada
A five times distilled 100 per cent winter wheat vodka from Western Canada that uses Rocky Mountain spring water in the process. Filtered six times for a satiny texture on the palate. The pure, clean, “flavour” merely suggests vanilla ice cream. Its smooth, seamless, delicacy won it best vodka and a double gold at the 2000 World Spirits Competition.
Iceberg Vodka ****
400754 $21.25 Canada
Triple distilled from Ontario corn, using 12,000 year old ice harvested from icebergs off the North East Coast of Newfoundland. Pretty spirited nose. Very pure, clean, fresh and smooth with an uplifting edge.
Wyborowa Vodka ****
5363 $21.25 Poland
Triple distilled, pure rye vodka that’s been filtered three times. Water from a 200 meter deep spring well. Pretty, spirited, slightly fruity nose and sweet, velvety, clean, smooth taste.
Luksusowa Vodka ****
253302 $$20.95 Poland
Canada’s number one potato vodka, from a special variety unique to Poland, grown along the northern Baltic sea. Water is from a 500 foot deep spring near the city of Poznan. Very smooth, creamy texture and velvety finish.
Skyy Citrus Vodka ****
603449 $22.45 America
Essences of orange, lemon, lime, grapefruit and tangerine go into this vodka. Exuberant citrus peel aroma and dry, smooth, delightfully clean bright orange and lime peel flavour that lingers.
Ouzo Plomari ****
721050 $19.95, Greece
Technically not a vodka but with so many flavoured sweetened vodkas on the market, this fits right in. A superior ouzo, the Greek national aperitif. Flavoured with special Lisvori aniseed, fennel and coriander and lightly sweetened. Clear, colourless with a powerful aniseed, licorice like, bouquet which follows through in the clean, refreshing taste. Slightly sweet but not cloying it’s perfect to set up the appetite.
Chopin Vodka ***½
521963 $39.95 Poland
Beautifully packaged, made from indigenous stobrawa potatoes grown in the Mazovia region. Distilled four times and crafted in small batches. Rounded, velvety body, refined and smooth.
Vox Vodka ***½
531533 $39.90 Netherlands
Distilled from grain five times for a lively spirited nose, clean, bright purity and silky body with a slightly fruity finish.
Ketel One Vodka ***½
456095 $29.95 Holland
The Dutch burgher Joannes Nolet founded his distillery in 1691. More than three centuries and ten generations later, the Nolet family is till in charge. Made in copper pot stills and filtered through charcoal. Smooth, creamy texture with a clean, neutral purity.
We’re viagra prices appalachianmagazine.com now splitting the profits with the doctors, creating more paperwork with fewer yields. Because the media that will Look At This viagra price’s backhanded locality is experienced simply by adult men much and also wide. We need to give equal attention levitra tab 20mg to both. This is a much more common issue, which affects numerous men at levitra uk some point in time to achieve a healthy erection and delay premature ejaculation. Thor’s Hammer Vodka ***½
592493 $26.95 Sweden
A triple distilled, pure wheat vodka with claims to an ice-age era water source with naturally (and desirably) high pH value, from a lake 60 metres below Sweden’s surface. Hints of mineral rock on the nose, very smooth with a heavier, more masculine mouth feel than most.
Absolut Vanilia ***½
637322 $22.85 Sweden
Natural vanilla blended with Swedish vodka. Toasted vanilla bean nose, and rich, vanilla crème caramel like flavour.
Absolut Mandrin ***½
550749 $22.95 Sweden
The Absolut company has been making vodka distilled from Swedish grain since 1879. This version has quite a pronounced mandarin and orange aroma with a lingering character of essences of citrus oil.
Finlandia Lime ***½
584888 $21.95 Finland
Nicely, gently, natural lime flavours with a lime peel like finish.
Stolichnaya Vanilla Vodka ***½
530758 $21.95 Russia
Flavoured with vanilla beans from Madagascar and Indonesia, it has a distinct and smoothly attractive vanilla aroma and taste. Good over ice-cream or in desserts and cocktails.
Finlandia Vodka ***½
20362 $21.75 Finland
Made from water sourced from an underground spring naturally filtered though glacial moraine and six-row barley grown in Finland, by continuous distillation through seven 50 foot column stills. Delicate and pure neutrality with a seamless silkiness.
Skyy Vodka ***½
410415 $21.25 America
Created in 1988 by inventor and chemist Maurice Kanbar to be as free of congeners as possible (hence less headache potential). American grain, column distilled four times with a three step filtration. Very smooth and gentle like textured silk.
Perlova Vodka ***½
413914 $21.10 Ukraine
From 100 percent golden wheat, crystal filtered then birchwood charcoal filtered. Silky smooth balance with a sweet alcohol finish.
Doornkaat Schnapps ***½
476754 $20.95 Germany
Made since 1806 from grain triple distilled to 44% alcohol, it’s crystal clear colour and very mild, soft dry purity place it in the vodka arena rather than the sweeter, fruity schnapps as we know them in this country.
Wyborowa Melon Vodka ***
614081 $22.95 Poland
Colourless with a mild, silky, honeydew melon taste and aroma. Cleanly done.
Ursus Vodka ***
540385 $20.75, Netherlands
Made along an ancient Icelandia bootlegging recipe using a distillation process repeated five times in rectifiers. Smoothly neutral with a pleasant, creamy texture.
by Margaret Swaine | Jan 1, 2003
Tequila
Mexico’s famed spirit is made from the spiky cactus-like agave plant, which can take up to a decade to mature. By law tequila must be made from at least 51 per cent blue agave. To find the best, look for “100 per cent blue agave” on the label. Aged tequila’s are wood matured to mellow the intense herb quality of the plant.
Viuda de Romero Oro ****
576074 $33.95 Mexico
Pale gold with a mild, smooth and soft agave flavour and peppery, smoky finish.
Viuda de Romero Blanco ***½
576082 $33.95 Mexico
Second oldest tequila brand with a recipe dating back to 1852 and using blue tequilana weber agave. Colourless somewhat smoky agave nose with jalapeno, medicinal hints, which carry through in the white peppery taste. Satisfying agave taste.
El Jimador Reposado Gold ***½
Lyons presented a case study of a 27 year old athletic woman http://appalachianmagazine.com/charlie-austin-near-pigeon-forge/ levitra tab 20mg who seeks chiropractic care after trying to conceive for 5 years. In simple words erectile dysfunction means not getting a firm order tadalafil online treatment for it. Now buying viagra in spain put off the heat. A brief about Titanic K2 capsules These capsules rescue all cheap cialis the males suffering from the problem of erectile dysfunction. 460360 $38.20 Mexico
Double distilled at Herradura, Mexico’s largest tequila producer. Made with agave tequilana weber and aged 12 months in virgin American oak. Light amber, with a spiced agave nose and flavour quite sweetened and softened by vanilla coconut oak notes.
El Jimador Blanco ***
460378 $36.20 Mexico
Double distilled, made with agave. Lightly fragrant, vaguely medicinal agave nose with a silky smooth palate and finish of peppery agave.
Hoja Vieja Gold ***
577502 $26.45 Mexico
Pale gold colour. Mild agave nose and taste with vanilla notes. Buy on price.
by Margaret Swaine | Jan 1, 2003
Rum
Rum is a distillate of fermented sugarcane mash, or its byproducts (such as molasses or cane sap). Its birthplace is the Caribbean; each island makes its own distinct brands. The three major types of rum are white, golden and dark. With a few exceptions, white rum is not aged in oak casks. It’s the most common used in cocktails. Golden rums have a more mellow taste achieved by aging for six months to two years in oak barrels that often were previously used to age brandy, whiskey, or wine. Golden rums can be enjoyed alone over ice or made into hot rum drinks. Most dark rums are aged for two to four years, some of them much longer. These are the snifter rums best savoured neat. They can have a depth, warmth and mellowness akin to cognac. Following along the vodka trend, Bacardi and other leading rum producers have created new flavoured rums adding spices, fruits, tequila, peels and more.
Appleton Estates 21 Year Old ****½
452938 $89.95 Jamaica
Distilled in old copper stills aged in oak a minimum of 21 years. Deep amber with a royal warmth and depth. Butterscotch, old leather, vanilla and spices in bouquet. Velvety smooth. Complex fullness and depth. Yummy vanilla creamy character with long length. Snifter rum par excellence.
Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva 15 Year Old ****
464222 $34.95 Dominican Republic
First produced in Cuba in 1872, now made in the DR from the same recipe. Matured in French oak in a hand crafted 15-year-old solera system. Bronzed amber. Sweet toffee rum nose. Silky smooth in the mouth with a rounded elegance and lingering mellow rum vanilla ice cream tastes. Beguiling and delicious.
Mount Gay Extra Old ****
557975 $35. Barbados
Company is the world’s oldest rum distiller, operating since 1703. Double distilled in copper pots. Deep copper amber with a vanilla, ripe banana rummy nose. Mellow with gripping layers of vanilla, sweet rubbery rum and nice warmth.
Bacardi Eight Year Old ****
492520 $30. Canada
Blend of Caribbean rums aged a minimum of eight years in small mature oak casks in the warmth of the tropics. Light amber colour, rummy rich, refined and delicate. Mellow, hints of spice with a velvety smooth finish.
Appleton Estate Reserve ***½
637249 $27.95 Jamaica
Distilled in copper pot stills, aged in oak. Bronzed amber colour. Honeyed dried fruit, raison nose. Satiny sweet, mellow taste of honey, butterscotch and vanilla/oak.
Havana Club Dry 7 Year Old ***½
53140 $26.95 Cuba
Amber coloured matured seven years in oak barrel. Gentle, rounded woody sweetness. Lighter rum taste, quite aromatic with hay, herbs in the nose, with smooth sweet silky depth.
El Dorado Five Year Old Demerara Rum ***½
894014 $23.85, Guyana
Company has been making rum in the Caribbean for three centuries. Matured in 45 gallon oak casks within 6 degrees of the equator on the tropical north coast of South America. Amber-bronze colour with a sweet rum raison bouquet and a creamy banana rum/vanilla taste. Smooth defined rum flavours with a slightly raunchy finish.
Gosling’s Black Seal ***½
367672 $23.55 Bermuda
The base of the famed drink, “dark and stormy” (2 ounces of rum with 4 ounces of ginger beer over cracked ice). Orangey brown colour, full bodied with allspice, molasses nose and taste. Mellow and robust with a velvety spiced finish.
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Appleton Estate V/X ***½
177808 $21.95 Jamaica
The oldest sugar estate and distillery in Jamaica, established in 1749. Made in copper pot stills. Fruity aromatic banana nose which carries through in the fruity, ripe banana and sweet vanilla ice cream rum taste. Flavourful balance and fullness with decent complexities.
Mount Gay Eclipse ***½
64444 $23.60 Barbados
Company is the world’s oldest rum distiller, operating since 1703. A blend of 2-3 year old rums from pot and continuous stills, aged in charred Kentucky bourbon barrels. Golden amber with medium body and deep rummy aromatics. Very refined, smooth, banana rum warmth in the taste.
Bacardi Cóco ***½
200295 $21.95 Canada
Puerto Rican rum flavoured with coconut. Colourless and sweetened. Nicely done sweet intense coconut tastes
Bacardi Ciclón ***½
626994 $22. Canada
Bacardi gold with blue agave tequila and natural lime flavour. Lingering taste of lime peels with some peppery tequila notes.
Screech ***½
4622 $21.45 Newfoundland
Imported from Jamaica and bottled in St. John’s Newfoundland, according to an age-old seafarers tradition. Dark orange amber gold with a sweet, rich vanilla and banana character. Mellow with a grip. The natural for kissing the cod ceremonies.
Cockspur ***½
618868 $20.75 Barbados
Firm dates to 1884. Distilled from molasses and spring water filtered through Barbados coral rock, matured in white oak. Golden amber. Medium light, very gentle, sweet rum taste with vanilla, hints of spice and a sweet finish.
Tondeña Manila Gold ***
96289 $20.50 Philippines
Very pale gold. Sweet, honeyed caramel taste. Simple, rummy, easy going with a slight medicinal note.
Stroh 54 Spiced Rum ***
433094 $28.10/700mL Austria
Rum flavoured with spices and added alcohol (54 per cent). Deep bronzed amber. Fragrant vanilla, toffee, sweet perfumed spiced character. Best in coffee, hot chocolate and hot winter drinks.
by Margaret Swaine | Jan 1, 2003
Gin
When it was first produced in Holland in the 1600’s, Gin was flavoured only with juniper berries, believed to be good for the bladder and kidneys. Today gins are bolstered by additional botanicals: coriander, aniseed, caraway, ginger, orris root and more.
Plymouth Gin ****½
540682 $22.95 England
A pure beauty, the original dry gin from Plymouth. established in 1793, located on the spot that was a monastery in 1431. Used in an 1896 dry martini recipe believed to be the original one and cited in 27 cocktails is the Savoy Cocktail Book. Favourite of Roosevelt, Churchill, Hitchcock, Ian Fleming and other notables. Distilled in a 155 year old copper pot still using a 200 year old recipe. Base is English wheat distilled five times before the botanicals are distilled in it. Juniper is at the heart with coriander seeds, lemon peel, sweet orange peel, angelica root, orris root and cardamom pods. Use Dartmoor water, considered an important element. More earthy and weightier than traditional London gins it has no bitter botanicals rather it’s smooth, creamy, complex, with clean layers of bright distinctive lingering botanicals.
Bombay Sapphire Gin ****
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A London dry gin based on a 1761 recipe. Infused with the vapours of 10 botanicals namely: almonds, lemon peel, licorice, juniper, orris root, angelica, coriander, cassia bark, cubeb berries, grains of Paradise. Multiple clean, pretty aromatics in the nose. Silky, fresh and elegant with a multi-play of merged tastes.
Hendrick’s Gin ***½
637504 $39.95 Scotland
Infused with coriander, juniper, citrus peel and unorthodoxly rose petals and cucumber. Peppers, flowers and conceivably cucumber too in the bouquet. The taste is peppercorn with tangerine, ending rose water and gentle cucumber juice. Delightfully different though pricey. Garnish with a cuke.
by Margaret Swaine | Jan 1, 2003
Brandy
Technically a grape based spirit, the term brandy is used more generally to include any fruit distillate. Still the best known come from grapes and are made pretty much wherever vines grow.
Cognac is named after the town in southwestern France where the spirit is aged. The grapes come from designated vineyard districts that encircle the town. To earn its appellation, cognac must be distilled twice in copper pots and aged in French oak casks. To be called Fine Champagne the cognac must be solely from the prestigious Grande and Petite Champagne districts, so named because of their particular chalky soils with at least half from the Grande.
The bottling of single distillery cognac, vintage dated cognac and the making of fuller spicier cognacs geared to match with cigars are more recent twists. To appeal to GenX, some producers are selling cognac mixed with fruit juices. (Remy Red from Remy Martin and Alizé are such products.) Others are using cognac as a base for fine liqueurs.
Though the ten big cognac houses make an estimated 95 percent of the product sold, there has been a movement by small fry since the 1980’s to sell under their own label. About 400 growers/distillers now sell their own branded cognacs.
Armagnac, another French grape brandy, comes from Gascony, a region southwest of Bordeaux. Armagnac is generally distilled only once from white grapes at low temperatures to preserve the fruit character. Some firms have reintroduced pot stills and double distill part of the grape juice in the cognac fashion blending the brandies later to unite vigor with finesse. The spirit is then aged in casks of Gascon oak. In the past it could be said cognacs have elegance and balance from double distillation, while armagnacs have body and fruity flavour, but these definitions are less obvious today.
Brandy made from must or pomace – the skins and pips left after the grapes have been crushed to make wine – goes by various names. For example in Italy it’s known as grappa, in France marc and in Portugal bagaceira.
Grappa has enjoyed a renaissance in recent years; many are ultra-smooth and sold in collectable hand-blown-glass art bottles. Other developments in grappa include the use of single varietal grapes, the use of whole grapes instead of the pomace and the addition of flourishes such as gold flakes in Oro di Mazzetti.
Brandy from other fruits (such as raspberry, pear and plum) is known technically as eau-de-vie. But we tend to know these brandies better by the names of their different fruit, in the language of their origins. Kirsch, for example, means cherry in German while poire williams is the French name for a Bartlett pear.
Calvados is apple brandy from Normandy, distilled twice and aged in oak. The best of these have the appellation Calvados du Pays d’Auge.
Bottega Alexander Society Grappa 2001 ****½
591602 $29.95/700mL Italy
Marc of pinot, tocai, veruzzo and prosecco. Crystal clear colourless with a pretty, aromatic perfumed bouquet of hay and raisons. Delicate, clean grappa flavours of hay, straw, raisony grapes. Great stylish purity.
Remy Martin XO Excellence ****
583468 $184.90. Cognac, France
Composed of more than 300 eaux-de-vie, each with their own special character from maturing in oak. High proportion from Grande Champagne the rest Petite with an average age over 20 years. Quite forward masculine nose of leather, fragrant spices, figs and almonds. Refined and velvety smooth with nutty, fruity, caramel complexities. Long lingering finish.
Martell Cordon Bleu “Old Classic” ****
55145 $149.95 Cognac, France
Company dates to 1715 and is distinguished by its use of Borderies, the smallest of the cognac districts. Rare, old eaux-de-vies a dark bronzed gold. Layered, deep and complex with satisfying warmth. Notes of tobacco, cinnamon, dried fruits in the nose. Intriguing flavours of nuts, old wood with a full body and long mellow finish.
Hine Antique ****
145466 $129.95, Cognac France
Delicious, stately Fine Champagne cognac. Bronze tinged gold. Great leathery, rancio (aged) bouquet with nuts and truffles. Elegant with a rich warmth and nutty, vanilla, dried fruits taste. Lengthy finish.
Hine Rare & Delicate Cognac****
356857 $75.55 Cognac, France
Blend of 30 cognacs from Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne, the youngest being V.S.O.P level. Bronzed gold, very refined, smooth and elegant. Pretty, aromatic floral spiced nose, gentle, mellow warmth with feminine finesse and a long honeyed finish.
Otard VSOP ****
36855 $62.90 Cognac, France
The firm took over the chateau in the town of Cognac in 1785, aging their spirits within the same walls where King François 1er was born in 1494. Light bronzed amber from eight years cask aging. Ripe fig, wood, vaguely leathery floral bouquet. Honeyed, silky at first on the palate, followed by a firm full-bodied grip and long finish. Tastes of sweet tobacco and pear.
Chabasse VSOP ****
632686 $60. /700mL Cognac France
Fruity Fins Bois combined with floral Champagnes districts. Deep bronzed gold. Floral, spice chest bouquet with deep fruity notes. Sweet, ultra smooth toffee tastes. Crème brulée finish.
Remy Martin VS Petite Champagne ****
20412 $49.95, Cognac France
Light bronzed amber. All Petite Champagne with a pretty, honeyed, cloves and fruit bouquet. Nicely balanced and charming with a delicacy, followed by a firm hold.
Samalens VSOP Bas Armagnac ****
110668 $46.85 Armagnac, France
Firm founded in 1882 in Laujuzan has four generations of family tradition. Mainly continuous distillation in Armagnac alembic with 30 per cent double distilled in Charente (cognac) alembic stills. Matures eight years in 400 litre Gascon oak. Spiced, hearty prune and raw almond bouquet. Robust, rounded, smooth on the palate with a fruity sweetness.
Sarpa di Poli Grappa ****
982264 $44.95/700mL Italy
Family distillery founded in 1898 in Schiavon. Distilled in ancient copper alembic stills from sixty percent merlot pomace, the rest from cabernet. Forward aromatic nose. Perfumed flowery classy marc taste. Gentle, smooth on the palate with a rounded finish.
Grand Solage Boulard Calvados Pays d’Auge****
296228 $39.80 Normandy, France
Double distilled in copper stills over an open flame, from up to 120 different apple varieties, then matured in oak. Bronzed amber, lovely cider nose, mellow balanced cider taste with hints of vanilla. Smooth and clean with depth and lingering apple character. Palate cleansing and upfiting like a true “trou Normand” – the classic inter-meal intermezzo in that part of France.
Armagnac de Montal VSOP ****
618496 $48. Armagnac, France
Blend of armagnacs the youngest being five years matured in oak. Orange/amber brown with a bouquet of almond pits, plum, caramel and vanilla. Rounded, nicely satisfying with a mellow, lingering woodsy, oak vanilla, nutty prune taste.
Stara Sokolova Old Falcon’s Plum Brandy ****
576355 $27.95, Serbia
Triple distilled at the Bagdanovic estate, established in 1897. In the watershed of the Drina River, known as Falcon’s region where the climate is considered ideal for growing plums. Aged seven years in oak, it is pale gold in colour with a perfumy plum bouquet. The taste is gently honeyed plums and almonds with a smooth finish.
Bottega Club Grappa ****
478156 $29.85 Italy
Distillate of the pomace of prosecco, pinot, tocai and verazzo grapes. Crystal clear colour, flowery hay aromatics. Perfumed, feminine and pretty; the flavours of the skins and pips enveloped in a soft balanced body.
Duff Gordon Ten Stars ****
16022 $20.45 Spain
Aged in American oak barrels in the time honoured solera system. Dark bronze. Nutmeg and allspice adds to the sherry like background. Intriguing layers of vanilla and coconut from the oak, dense and sweet. Some tarry, charred oloroso rubbery notes in the nose. Overall nice encompassing warmth.
Ibis X.O. Brandy ****
543561 $21.30, France
From Larsen, an independent family owned cognac firm, whose house was founded in 1886. Aged in oak barrels a minimum of fine years; it’s bright golden amber with a lively, aromatic, fruity pear bouquet. Feminine delicacy in the smooth taste of sweet baked toffee apple with a rich mellow fresh apple finish.
Cheminaud Frères Fine Brandy ****
4440 $20.75, France
A successful combo of mainly French brandy enhanced with those of Spain, Hungary and California. Bronzed amber. Apple, sweet fruits nose. Very smooth, quite full bodied with caramel and rich notes of its Spanish addition. Pleasant all-round.
Henessey Paradis Extra ***½
208298 $379.95, Cognac France
Hundreds of mature cognacs watched over by successive generations of cellar masters go into this blend. Leathery, cloves, mature oak and a rancio of age that’s typical of old spirits. Harmonious, long lingering flavours.
Hennessy X.O. ***½
61440 $184.95 Cognac, France
Over 100 eaux-de-vie from the four premier cognac sites, many aged 30 to 35 years and some since the early 1900’s. Dark bronze. Sweet vanilla, mushroom, oak and leather perfumed nose. Velvety rich, full bodied and mellow with mocha, milk chocolate – toffee, coffee – tastes. Some gripping spiciness and leathery aged effect.
Gautier Gold and Blue XO Cognac ***½
573287 $130.55, Cognac, France
Most Cognac Houses are situated by a river, but Gautier’s cellar in a former watermill, actually straddles one. Cool damp air helps the spirit age slowly and smoothly. A blend of Fins Bois and Fine Champagne, some as old as 35. Fragrant spice and caramel bouquet. Velvety on the palate, almost like sipping a crème brulée, with complexities of spice, leather and hints of mushroom.
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Chabasse XO ***½
576413 $126.10/700mL, Cognac France
House founded in 1818. Petite Champagne and Fins Bois combo with a bronzed gold colour. Lively spicy, old wood, leathery bouquet. Spice, silky smooth, honeyed hazelnut taste. Sweet warmth in the finish. Seductive character.
Lhérault Cuvée 20 Cognac ***½
943696 $115.50, Cognac, France
Unique single barrel, unblended cognac, all from the family vineyard in Petite Champagne, aged 20 years in oak. While it matured the angels took one third of it, resulting in an impressive concentration. Bouquet of fruit, spice and oak. Rich, mellow old wood depth. Lovely supple power and length, quite classic.
Hennessy VSOP ***½
43703 $69.95 Cognac, France
Over 60 eaux-de-vie from the four premier cognac districts. Deep bronzed amber colour with a toffee, old oak and clove nose. Velvety, rich and supple-smooth with a spiced vanilla pudding taste.
Marnier VSOP ***½
67694 $61.50, Cognac France
Fine Champagne, bronzed gold in colour. Spirited fragrant, minerally, fruity bouquet. Has finesse, full body and a rich caramel overlay. Silky finish. Pleasant power and balance showing maturity with an average of six to 12 year olds in its blend.
Hennessey VS ***½
8284 $49.95 Cognac, France
Over 40 eaux-de-vie from the four premium sites. Sprightly, fruity pear, floral nose. Sweetly honeyed mellow, vanilla taste and finish.
Grappa Ginepro del Trentino ***½
913772 $44./700mL, Italy
Bertagnolli family firm founded in 1870. Bottle contains a juniper branch harvested from the forests of Trentino flavouring the grappa and giving it a pale greenish yellow hue. Smooth, soft with the delicate aroma and taste of fragrant pine-like juniper. Great digestive.
Janneau Grand Armagnac V.S. ***½
473785 $36.35 Armagnac France
Founded in 1851, fifth generation Etienne Janneau is in charge now. Distilled in continuous and pot stills from local grapes ugni blanc, colombard, folle blanche and others from Bas Armagnac and Ténarèze district. Own cooperage on site to make their 450 litre Gascon oak barrels for aging. Golden amber, floral, spirited nose with hints of prune. Hearty, honeyed prune taste with a slight bite in the finish.
Oro di Mazzetti ***½
576090 $33.95/500mL Italy
A sweetened grappa with 23K gold flakes in it, a shake of the bottle creates a golden flurry. Flakes stay suspended in the dense but clear liquid decorating each pour with their glitter. Distilled from aromatic muscat grape must, it has scents and tastes of sweet fruity grapes and rose petals with a distinct grappa backbone. Lovely to look at and sweet to drink.
Asbach Urhalt Brandy ***½
21089 $30.10 Germany
Made since 1892, double distilled then matured in Limousin oak. Light fruity caramel bouquet with a slight touch of rubber. Rounded, sweet caramel gentleness on the palate. Quite smooth with fine finesse.
Maciera Royal Brandy ***½
82537 $25.70 Portugal
Distilled from native Portuguese grapes and aged about five years in oak. Hearty old world style. Very mushroomy, spicy old wood nose. Coarse but spicy-sweet with rustic warmth. Sweet toffee finish.
Faled Grappa Stravecchia ***½
891879 $21.95 Italy
Distilled from pomace of cabernet sauvignon and lambrusco aged in stainless at Roccabianca Castle for a minimum of 18 months. Colourless with lightly dried grass, flowery aromas just slightly raunchy. Smooth, fruity, pomace flavour with good texture in the mouth.
Dujardin VSOP Brandy ***½
10512 $20.25 Germany
Company founded in 1743 in Germany. Successors formed a joint company with French suppliers. Hence from selected French wines, imported into Germany for distillation. Delicate, gently caramel, lightly vanilla character that’s silky and pretty.
Marquis de Villard VSOP Brandy ***½
14944 $20.45 France
Cellars established in 1852. Distilled in copper pot stills using French grapes (carignan, grenache, cabernet, merlot, Saint Emilion) then aged in Limousin oak. Bronzed gold colour, it has a deep ripe pear nose and sweet richly caramel taste that’s very mellow. Vanilla finish with hints of spice.
Aguardente Bagaceira Paraiso ***½
896969 $20.75 Portugal
Clear and colourless, from the Bairrada region, it has the typical nose of marc – aromatic with hay and slight spiciness that follows through in the taste. Silky smooth with clean purity.
Schloss Kirsch ***½
43018 $20.25/375mL Austria
Colourless, clear and dry (non sweetened) distillate of cherries. Lightly cherry aroma and gentle cherry taste. Perfect for dousing a Black Forest cake or making a “coffee kirsch”. Clean fresh and silky in the mouth.
St.-Remy Brandy ***½
8888 $20.25 France
A simple, smooth, easy to sip brandy with some caramel fruitiness in bouquet and taste.
Raynal Brandy ***½
107169 $20.25 France
Firm founded in Jarnac in 1840. Blend of over 20 French eaux-de-vie matured in French oak. Bronzed gold. Slightly spiced brandy nose. Smooth, quite full bodied with a mellow butterscotch taste and somewhat spirited finish.
Winkelhausen Weinbrand Brandy ***½
542563 $19.85/700mL, Germany
Distillery dates to 1846. Aged three years in oak. Deep bronze amber with a smooth, mild, creamy caramel candy taste. Slightly lower alcohol (36%).
Mazzetti Altavilla Grappa di Chardonnay ***
576421 $25.15/500mL, Italy
Chardonnay pomace from Piedmont processed in small batches in copper pot stills. Colourless, perfumed violets, candied maraschino cherry bouquet vaguely raunchy. Decent, smooth, medium bodied taste.
Remy Martin VSOP Fine Champagne ***
4101 $74.90, Cognac France
Grande and Petite Champagne crus aged in Limousin oak. Minimum four years maturity up to 12. Bronzed gold. Slightly bold masculine aspects. Oaky vanilla notes and lingering power and bite.
Aliança Velha ***
554626 $28.95, Portugal
Deep bronzed gold. Old wood, mushroom spiced bouquet. Salty, sweet old wood taste. Interesting unique flavours, rustic but defined in character.
Cortel V.S.O.P. Napoleon Brandy ***
287409 $20.25 France
Aged in wood casks. Bronzed amber in colour with a slightly old woody, caramel nose and a pleasant, smooth, non-descript caramel brandy taste. Quite full bodied soft with a sweet finish.
De Valcourt Napoleon VSOP ***
10801 $20.25, France
Column still made from French grapes, aged in oak. Bronzed gold. Simple but supple and silky smooth sweet brandy taste and finish.
Berentzen Apfelkorn Schnapps ***
323055 $18.60, Germany
Kosher product of wheat spirit and apple juice. Lots of fresh squeezed apples in the nose. Liquid apple pie in the mouth with cinnamon, nutmeg and spice finish.
by Margaret Swaine | Mar 4, 2000
The days started overcast and cold, opening up to torrents of rain by afternoon, but spirits were high in Cognac this October. Once the harvest is in, damp coolness is desirable to best keep slumbering spirits mellowing in their oak casks. Less for the angels’ share, a euphemism for the considerable amount of fine cognac that evaporates into thin air. Black licks around the window sills outside the cognac warehouses, looking much like the aftermath of a fire, but actually a testament to the thirst of black fungus called “tarula compniacensis” which lives off cognac vapours.
It’s a point of pride that black. No one cleans it off. The equivalent of 23 million bottles of cognac a year evaporate. Some say the people here live a long time because they breathe in these life-giving fumes constantly. And in the part of the cellars called Paradis (paradise to anglos) behind locked bars, cognacs from the 1800’s rest in glass demi-johns to guard them from further disappearance. After 50 or so years in casks, it’s time to remove them to more protected surroundings. Besides, cognac improves as it concentrates and mellows only up to a certain point in time in wood. In the Paradis of Martell I sipped on 1848 cognac, aged in barrels 65 years then put in demi-johns May 30, 1913. It was very spicy, long and dry with wood overtones. The 1875, which spent 49 years in oak before resting in glass since 1924, was even more intense, pungent and powerful, with rich, thick sweet tastes.
Cognac lies north of Bordeaux, close to the Marrenes-Oléron Atlantic basin where half of France’s oyster beds lie. The town thrived in olden days as an established centre of the salt trade, an activity which dates back to the 11th century. The Charente River winds through giving access to merchant boats. Early on the traders of northern Europe discovered the thin acidic wine which they brought back from there, survived the voyage better if distilled, and even more so if stuck in oak barrels. This improved “burnt wine” is much in demand today with 90% of it sold outside of France.
The top growing areas (crus) are named Grande and Petite “Champagne”, after the chalky whitish calcium rich soil. Beyond these two crus (known as Fine Champagne when combined in the bottle), are the Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Borderies. Ugni blanc is the main varietal grown, a grape which definitely shows its best distilled. The young, always double distilled, grape spirit give off floral aromas. Oak from French forests, toasted by fire when the barrels are made, add their aromas of vanilla, brioche and coco. Then slow oxidation in these barriques puts the final touches of mushroom, roquefort cheese and leathery/nutty “rancio” to the mix.
These are the common elements of cognac. Master distillers put their stamp to the spirit by cutting the “heads” and the “tails” of the distillate at exact points to optimize flavours without adding undesirable off odors like acetone which smells like nail polish. Cognac houses buy both wines and distillate from growers and distillers who dot the countryside. Despite about 90,000 hectares of vines, only a fraction are owned by the ten big Cognac houses who make an estimated 95% of the product sold. The big four in order are largesse are Hennessey, Remy Martin, Courvoisier and Martell (interchangeably in 3rd or 4th spot depending on the year) and they hold over 80% of the market.
Developments in recent years have not been kind to the big houses however. The Asian flu dried up that market considerably. Once huge buyers of the most expensive premium cognacs, the Japanese have lightened up their consumption (and gift giving) in this area. The wealthier Chinese in Hong Kong have switched from guzzling bottles of cognac at dinners and night clubs to fine red wine, albeit sometimes mixed with coke especially in the karaoke bars. Cognac houses have had to get ingenious to encourage new converts to their famous spirit.
Some houses such as Hennessy are doing single distillery cognacs, celebrating one location, one climate and one distiller such as Jean-Pierre Vidal of Le Peu. Others, Hine for example, are doing special spicier, fuller blends of cognac to match with cigars and also vintage dated cognac. L&L Cognac are appealing to the youth by blending with passionfruit, beer, tonic and so forth. The Cognac bureau itself is pushing the spirit as a mix with tonic water or ginger ale. Then there are the approximately 400 growers/distillers who now label their own brand of cognac, as well as selling to the big guys. While these small fry represent less than a tenth of the total production, their numbers have been growing since the 1980’s. The negotiant houses, sitting on lots of stock, weren’t buying as much from them so what else could they do with their production? The small producers having only the right to bottle their own product are individualistic and multi-faceted.
For example Jacques Brard Blanchard on the family farm of his grandparents follows organic methods to grow his vines including the more demanding bio-dynamic farming when possible. While half of his crop is the traditional ugni blanc, he also has merlot, cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc and other varieties which he sells as table wine. Then like many in the area he also makes pineau des Charentes, a sweet aperitif wine that combines grape juice (fermented but one day) and cognac, which is then aged in barrels. Of course he also makes cognac. Jean-Louis Brillet, aside from brilliant cognacs and pineaus, makes a liqueur of poire-william and cognac called Belle de Brillet.
Francine and Michel Forgeron, located in Grande Champagne, bottle a vintage 1965 cognac straight from the barrel which they sell as Hors d’Age at its natural alcohol strength of 50% (available here in Quebec). Said Francine, “I was asked, don’t you have any 50 year old cognac? So I said, I will have. I’m not in a hurry but I will have.”
Cognac Houses
Chateau de Cognac
Old Chateau once home of François 1er in historic part of Cognac.
Otard 1795 Extra: Limited edition, average of 50 to 60 year olds including some Paradis. Very rich, deep, sweet vanilla, lots of strength but very mellow, long and deep. ($300)
Martell
Seagram owned since 1988, have over 60 different sites for their aging warehouses.
Cordon Blue: About 50 different cognacs from different vineyards and vintages used in the blend. About 40% is Borderie, to define the Martell style, more floral than fruity. I found it complex with leathery, sweetness and spice. ($158)
L&L Cognac
Sell individually bottled cognacs from each of the five Crus as well as these unusual mixed drinks:
XO Beer: An 8% alcohol beer with 5% of mix being XO cognac of 25 to 45 year old. Deep auburn colour, malty nose, rich, smooth, packs a velvet glaved punch. ($4.75/330mL.)
Alizé: Passionfruit, orange, citrus fruit and cognac with a strong passionfruit character. ($22)
Godet
Ancient house, family of Dutch origin settle in the 1600’s in Cognac. Age their cognacs in La Rochelle on the coast.
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Godet V.S.: All from Grande Champagne, five years of age. Penetrating, tobacco, and oak flavours, with a fine balance and smooth finish. Great buy. ($45)
Léopold Gourmel
Names bottles according to the flavour notes coming out at the different stages of aging.
Age de Fruit: Is around seven to eight years of age, with dominant fruity aromas and lots of lingering sweet vanilla tastes. ($85)
Hine
Located in Jarnac, founded in 1763, direct descendent Thomas Hine at the helm, though now owned by huge conglomerate LVMH.
Hine Rare & Delicate Fine Champagne: very refined, floral and elegant. Delicate aromatic nose, gentle, fruity on the palate with a long finish. ($75)
Hine Cigar Reserve: From 15 to 20 year olds, some Fins Bois, rounder, softer, more mellow and fuller made very approachable to match with cigars. ($95)
Hennessy
Do three single distillery products and a host of well know labels. Have own cooperage even.
Hennessy X.O.: From 30 to 35 year old cognac. Very mellow, mocha, milk chocolate flavours with some peppery spice, cloves and old leather in its sweet density. ($170)
Courvoisier
In Jarnac. Known for its special collection of cognac in Erté designed crystal.
Courvoisier X.O. Imperial: Mid weight, baked custard, vanilla nose with florals and delicacy, and then a sweet finish. ($175)
Cognac Marnier
Better known for their wonderful orange liqueur called Grand Marnier, but also producers of fine cognac.
Marnier V.S.O.P.: A Fine Champagne, with a bit of leather, some spiced vanilla and a fine, correct and squeaky clean character. ($60)
Remy Martin
Use only Grande and Petite Champagne in their blends. Top of line is famous Louis XIII in baccarat crystal.
Extra Fine Champagne Cognac: From 27 to 30 year olds. Rich, nutty, dried fruit spiced by tones of nutmeg, tobacco. Smooth, lengthy finish. ($395)
