The hot waters were here first. That’s important to understand or you may be scratching your head as to why a fancy hotel would be located in a rather suburban neighbourhood of small plain houses. The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa however, located about ten minutes drive from the town of Sonoma, creates its own oasis and once inside its gates lush gardens, pools and hot springs beckon.
I chose to stay here because it’s both in one of California’s celebrated wine counties and guests here can play the Sonoma Golf Club, home to the PGA Champion’s Tour Charles Schwab Cup Championship each October. Just a two minute free hotel shuttle away, this course founded in 1928 is celebrated as both a golf masterpiece and for its natural setting. You can go for a “Tee for Two” package that includes golf, onsite practice, breakfast and accommodation at the Inn or do as I did and go a la carte to take full advantage of the various spa services. You’re likely to find the spa as tempting as the golf.
Ancient thermal mineral waters grace the site which was first revered by natives as a bathing ground. In the 1840’s San Franciscans flocked to the area to enjoy the restorative waters and a bathhouse was erected. Since then generations of travelers have come here to ‘take the waters’ and enjoy what is now a sprawling Spanish Mission style resort first built in 1927. From 1,100 feet directly beneath the inn water flows up at 135 degrees and once the temperature is adjusted, is used in various pools and soaking areas.
Like many places that are blessed with natural hot mineral springs, the Inn encourages a bathing ritual based on the ancient Greek hydrotherapy circuit. The ritual here is self guided and there are little instruction notes dotted about. I’ve experienced natural mineral bath spas all over the globe – in Germany’s Baden Baden, Austria’s Bad Gastein, Jordan’s Dead Sea, Czech Republic’s Karlsbad and elsewhere. Each bathhouse has its own style and here it was quite laid back yet with all the expected water treats: a Roman soaking pool kept at around body temperature, Jacuzzi-style jetted pool at a hotter 102F degrees, eucalyptus steam room, European sauna, cool showers and outdoors several mineral pools for swimming. I particularly liked the peaceful Watsu pool with its piped in underwater music, maintained at 98 degrees and where you could enjoy a “floating” massage by one of the massage therapists on staff.
Massages here are good if mine was any example. You can also get the complete gamut of spa services such as body wraps, exfoliating scrubs, facials, manicures, pedicures and even tarot card readings. There’s an indoor relaxation lounge with fireplace and outdoor resting loggia to hang out in-between treatments and pre or post doing the bathhouse ritual. Fresh fruit, nuts, teas and a choice of six types of elixirs are complimentary on a help yourself basis laid out in the lounge. It’s these nice touches that really make you feel pampered. Once you’ve indulged you might want to hit the fitness centre which has a full range of equipment and classes including pilates for golf.
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Two other places are stand outs in Sonoma County. Towards the ocean in a tiny town called Freestone is unique day spa called Osmosis. Owner Michael Stusser is a founder of the Green Spa Network and the place is so laid back it’s like stepping back into hippy times. On five and a half tranquil acres with Japanese gardens and massage pagodas set in the woods, its signature treatment is an enzyme bath. Basically you are buried up to your neck in a hot mixture of pulverized Oregon cedar, rice bran and enzymes. It’s a technique for purifying and relaxing the body that Stusser brought back from Japan. I think for North Americans it’s somewhat disconcerting at first but I was pumped enough by the experience to have a desire to return.
The other delightful place is Santa Rosa’s funky rustic Zazu restaurant. It’s a friendly roadhouse where you go in your jeans and bring a healthy appetite for pig. Duskie Estes was once a contestant on “Food Network Challenge” where she wooed judges with her Laura Chenel goat cheese macaroni and cheese stuffed in a roasted artichoke. Her husband John Stewart is known for making Black Pig ‘salumi’ and bacon which was featured on a Mario Batali burger on “Good Morning America.” Their menu is fun and tasty with items such as backyard squash blossom fritti, Soda Rock Farm tomato & Black Pig bacon BLT salad, peach bellini sorbetto floats, wild boar ragu and gingerbread stuffed tiny pumpkins.
After such indulgences I found peace in the sanctuary of the Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa and its cocooning effect.