The Southernmost House Grand Hotel and Museum
By Margaret Swaine
South of Miami driving through a 125-mile island chain called the Florida Keys, over 43 bridges – one seven miles long – I finally reached the southernmost tip of the United States. At the end of Duval Street in Key West, on a tiny two-by-four mile island, was a profusion of signs all claiming “southernmost”. There was an inn, hotel, motel, and beach front property some of which looked depressingly modern for an old town. Which was my Southernmost House? With a sigh of relief, I sighted the Southernmost House Grand Hotel and Museum and she was all she had billed herself to be and more.
Built in 1896 by Judge Vining Harris, she had colourful grandeur, something quite to be expected of “The Grand Lady of Key West” where presidents Truman, Kennedy, Nixon and Carter have stayed. The museum part of her name also bore truth. Documents in the hallways go back to pleas from Queen Isabella of Spain dated 1486, six years before Columbus discovered the “New World” and original letters and signatures from every US president. There is also a large collection of Hemmingway artifacts, including the only known letter changing his address to Key West, Florida.
The Ramos family bought the house from Judge Harris in 1939 and have owned it ever since. Recently the property completed a five-year restoration to return her to original splendor. Each of the 13 guest rooms is unique. My room #201 was extra large with a tasteful modern marble bathroom, antique furniture and a big private balcony with an awesome view of the ocean and hotel pool. All the rooms in the main house have their own charm, some with ocean views, some with turrets and Jacuzzi tubs, others with balconies and large sitting areas. The more recently built cabana suites, separate from the main house, are comfortably well appointed with either garden, pool or ocean views. The Waterfront Suite 101 is like having your own cottage at the edge of the ocean. Cuba is just 90 miles across the water.
With so few rooms and a location literally at the end of the road, the place quickly felt like my own private domain. There was just one couple at the pool and no one on the waterfront deck or in the garden seating area. Then I found action. Both locals and guests were whooping it up at the Carson City Saloon Bar circa 1839 which been transported to the hotel’s garden to act as the open-air pool bar. The owners had bought it at an auction for big bucks (it had spent part of its life on the set of Bonanza) and now it was weathering the hurricanes and humidity of Key West. That quirkiness is very Key West. When I was headed here a Miami resident cautioned me “Once you’re past Marathon, things get weird”. (The Keys are divided into five regions; Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key and Key West. Marathon is in the middle.)
Other eccentricities at the hotel include their 24 bunny rabbits hopping around the backyard and pool. A neighbor had given the hotel two rabbits which subsequently did what rabbits do. The now numerous pets are fed but not caged. Tourists also wander in off the streets on a regular basis both to view the museum artifacts and photograph the property. It’s that pretty.
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The history of Key West itself comes alive in the hotel. It’s located at the base of the town’s Historic District, a brief stroll from the Southernmost Point of the country, Fort Zachary Taylor and many other old town museums and attractions. But first as I walked up Duval Street I came upon a “rub” club for men, then saw La te da, offering a drag show on one floor and a piano bar on the ground level. Next I spied Senses at Play, a shop with erotic pictures on the walls which offered couples a chance to be photographed in nude sensual poses. Apparently very appealing to conservative mid-west folks.
The Keys were first sited by adventurer Ponce de Leon in 1513. Later pirates found refuge here and settlers farmed in the early 1800’s. Wreckers made fortunes salvaging goods from ships that went down on the reefs and in the mid-19th century sponge harvesting was a lucrative industry. Now more than three million tourists arrive each year, an equally good money maker. More interesting though, the varied history and laid back subtropical atmosphere gives rise to very colorful residents. Life is different here.
Residents born in the island chain are known as conchs, after the mollusk that used to be abundantly fished in the Keys. The moniker Conch Republic is the affection term for the area. Stone crabs are still harvested and so are pink shrimp as well as many types of scale fish. As a seafood lover, I found nirvana at Mangoes Restaurant about five minutes walk from the hotel. Even closer, just around the corner, was Conch and The Cuban a delightful little outdoor joint with the best fresh grouper on toasted Cuban bread as well as eggs, omelets, sandwiches and more. (Worth noting as the one disappointment with the hotel was the pedestrian continental breakfast.) Dessert lovers should be happy with the Key Lime pie on offer at many spots in town. It’s another area specialty though key limes are no longer grown commercially in the Keys.
The Grand Lady of Key West anchors the Keys with aplomb, grace and just enough twisted sister to captivate even the most seasoned traveler.
IF YOU GO: Where: 1400 Duval Street, Key West, Florida 33040. Cost: May 16 to December 22 from $175 US for a poolside cabana room to $325 US for one of the large main house rooms. High season (Jan. 15 to May 15) starts at $225 US up to $495 US for the King Turret Suite #301 on a weekend. Contacts: Phone 305-296-3141 Email southernmost@bellsouth.net Web www.southernmosthouse.com The Keys: www.fla-keys.com