In Alsace, we are not in the timber business, we are in the wine business,” pronounced Etienne Hugel as I tasted through a dozen of his wines. Part of the 12th generation in this family business, it’s obvious where he gets his ideas. His uncle Jean Hugel, who presided over 50 consecutive vintages before retiring, walked in at the end of the tasting to say “Isn’t it nice to come to an area where they make wine with only grapes. We are not in the timber business.”
This is the most common refrain I heard throughout the 170 kilometres which make up the Alsace Wine Route, among the over 1,100 wine-makers who sell in bottle. Like a great big family with internal squabbles, everything else was the subject of debate. Each winemaker expressed impassioned opinions about the optimum hectoliters per hectare, the planting of non-traditional grapes such as chardonnay, the naming of Grand Cru vineyards and exactly how dry each of the classical seven grape varieties should be vinified. But then while this is an area of close knit families and a viticultural history that can be traced back 2,000 years, it’s also an area which has been invaded frequently, falling under different flags depending on the victors. Vines were rampaged during such times as the Germanic invasion in the 5th century, The Thirty Years’ War and the two World Wars changing Alsace wine-making along with the politics of the area.
Tucked up in the most northeast corner of France, across the Rhine River from Germany and touching Switzerland at its southern tip, Alsace is jewel of a region. The Vosges Mountains to the west act like an umbrella, taking the brunt of the rain and blessing the area with one of the driest climates in the country. It’s postcard picturesque with historic walled villages of cobble stone streets, half-timbered houses, Romanesque and Gothic churches. The ruins of Medieval castles dot the mountain sides. Between the two gateways of Marlenheim in the north and Thann is the south, row upon row of vines undulate through the rolling countryside. Signposted vineyard trails give walkers a choice of 19 different “two hour” strolls.
Hugel & Fils is in the centre of Riquewihr, a town so pretty it makes your heart ache for romance. Recently Hugel attained the status of number one exporter of Alsace wines to Canada, beating out Willm which held the honour for decades ( a 1956 Quebec Liquor Commission listing shows 1947-49 Willm Riesling for $2.40). Still completely family owned and self-financed, they harvest from 65 acres of their own domain and buy from an additional 300 acres. They have clout and prestige. They also have the luxury of sticking to their guns. Along with two other major wineries who dominate the export market, Trimbach and Beyer, they oppose the Alsace Grand Cru system set up in 1975.
A little background is necessary to understand the significance of this. Since the devastation of this century’s wars, the push for renewal has divided the farmers in Alsace between those who believe in producing large quantities of cheap wine from high yield grapes, and those who advocate quality wines from traditional noble varieties. The quality over quantity guys have prevailed. The region was thus rewarded with AOC (recognized appellation of origin) Alsace status in 1962. Named after the grape variety, Alsace wines generally express the true varietal character of their origins in a pure fashion. About ninety percent of the wine production is white. Officially recognized grapes are riesling, pinot blanc, pinot gris, gewurztraminer, muscat, sylvaner and the only red, pinot noir. By law they are sold in tall bottles called flûtes.
However, the rest of France tends to believe that earth or “terroir” is of ultimate importance. They give the best vineyard sites the name of the nearby village, chateau or even the plot of land. Fortunately for Alsace, their soils are both diverse and rich in minerals. About 50 million years ago both the Vosges and the Black Forest of Germany were a single massif. When it collapsed the Rhine plain was formed. The Alsace vineyards, situated along the fault line between the remaining massif of the Vosges and the plain, are a mosaic of the collapsed ancient upper layers. Clay, limestone, marl, granite, gneiss, schist and even volcanic soils are intermingled. Certain vineyard areas have the geology to be deemed better than the norm. Hence in 1975 the first 25 designated vineyard sites which yielded wines of distinctive character were named. A few years later, another 25 were added bringing the total to fifty sites of Alsace Grand Cru vineyards.
Hugel, which has half of its vineyards in Grand Crus areas, decided not to be part of the system because they think it’s too watered down for Alsace to gain recognition for top quality. “They allow too high yields…and they wanted everything to be Grand Cru,” said Etienne. The Hugels believe in hand picking, low yields and as little intervention in the wine making process as possible. For the moment, they don’t label wines which come from Grand Cru areas as such. They believe their family name on the labels present a better indicator of quality. Down in the cellar, Etienne showed me the world’s oldest wine barrel in continuous use. Built in 1715, “Catherine the vat” has been filled by 12 generations of Hugel’s and is listed in the Guinness Book of Records.
Later that day in the town of Ribeauvillé where storks still nest on the rooftops, I meet with Hubert Trimbach, whose family wine-making tradition is also in its 12 generation. Below the enchanting winery with its half timbered walls and spire towers, I traipsed through his subterranean rooms holding over a million bottles in slumber until the time for their release. He too says “There’s not enough discipline in the use of Grand Cru so we don’t use it on our labels.” He blames it on the coops which have built huge wineries and need volume.
His thoughts on grape varietals differ however somewhat from Hugel. Etienne told me he felt gewurztraminer had the uniqueness of style that can insure a good future for Alsace. “I don’t think you can reproduce it well anywhere else,” he explained. Trimbach confided on the other hand, “Between us, riesling is the greatest white wine in the world. The longest lived. Chardonnay can go to…bed.”
Trimbach wines are all about focus and style. He never allows them to go through malolactic, a secondary fermentation which softens the acidity in a wine. His are steely, intense and long lived. His Clos Sainte Hune from a great vintage can still be fresh after 30 years, and is arguably the best riesling of Alsace.
Marc Beyer of Léon Beyer winery in Eguisheim is another anti-Grand Cru, proponent of dry lemony crisp whites. His Riesling Les Ecaillers, despite being 100% from a Grand Cru vineyard is named after an oyster shucking and white wine competition rather than a plot of vines. It does indeed go very well with mollusks. “We focus on being food wine. I refuse any residual sugar if I can help it,” he emphasized.
Meanwhile near the Medieval town of Kayersberg, the Colette Faller and her daughters Catherine and Laurence (Laurence is one of the few female wine-makers in Alsace) do things a little differently. “We keep our house brand name and add the Grand Cru designation,” said Laurence. All their grapes are from their own Domaine Weinbach property. And they don’t always ferment their wines dry. She said in hot years when grapes have a high natural sugar, if they were to ferment the grapes completely dry, the resulting wine would have too high an alcohol level. In addition, she explained they use native yeasts which slow down before all the sugars are fermented to alcohol and the wine could get tired if they always waited until completion. Her wines had an opulence and lush ripe fruit, yet still plenty of acidity and length.
Bernard Sparr at Pierre Sparr in Sigolsheim, is another believer in putting the Grand Cru designation along with his family’s brand name. His grandfather was the mayor of the town during World War II and typifies what happened in the region. He held four passports in his lifetime. “In 1911 before World War I we were part of the German empire. In 1918 he became French. Then back in 1939 he’s German again. Then after that war French,” said Bernard. Grandfather’s involvement in the French Resistance leaves no doubt as to his preference of citizenship. His winery however was completely destroyed and he had to replant and rebuild from scratch.
Bernard, who recently married a Canadian he met in Ottawa, has inherited that fighting spirit. Along with the traditional grapes, he plants chardonnay which he oak ages. He ages his pinot noir in oak also, contrary to most other Alsace producers. However he did admit, “Ninety-eight percent of the time we are against wood….We have just a few thousand bottles of wine that was in oak.” Regarding sweetness in wine he said, “ We try to look for balance of acidity and residual sugar. I think riesling has to be dry as it’s the king of Alsace and the most well known. With pinot gris, gewurztraminer and muscat they must have some residual sugar or they will be so alcoholic they’ll burn your mouth.” His wines are fleshy, with big flavours and ripeness.
Perhaps the last word must go to Olivier Humbrecht of Zind-Humbrecht, one of the most out-spoken of a generation of strongly opinionated wine-makers. He is France’s first graduate of the British Master of Wine program as well as an oenologist. His wines are among the most expensive and I believe, the best, coming from the region. “Plenty of my wines get rejected at tasting panels as too rich, not typical for the region. They just don’t understand what I’m doing.” All his vineyards were converted to biodynamic viticulture since 1998 (beyond organic – this method follows the cosmic influences of the moon and planets as well) He goes for low yields, ferments in large wood foudres (vats) using native yeast, believes in letting the wine develop with as little intervention as possible – so it “speaks for itself”. He puts Grand Cru on his labels but said, “In Alsace every village wanted a Grand Cru so almost all got one it seems,” adding that he thought only about 30 deserved it. “Things have to change but if you criticize too hard people think you’re an extremist and they won’t listen and you won’t get any change.”
The recommended dose of prices viagra is 5 mg, taken at approximately the same time every day, without regard to timing of sexual activity. Diuretics (Water Pills) – Recommended as the first line of action to stimulate the ovaries to release more eggs cialis on line http://robertrobb.com/phoenix-needs-a-part-time-mayor/ and thereby increase the chances of becoming pregnant. People usually ignore all such issues and do the best viagra not consider it a regular treatment that need specific on daily basis. It is necessary procedure effects of levitra professional browse for info to take place in the natural manner.
Lucky for us, we needn’t worry while they sort it out. All the Alsace wines which are imported into Canada are from the area’s top quality producers. No matter what’s on the label, what’s in the bottle is bound to be good.
Alsace Wines Gentil Hugel 1997: Blend of sylvaner with over 50% noble varietals (riesling, pinot gris, gewurztraminer, muscat) with a pretty floral nose and a gentle, perfumed, grapy taste. Rounded, it hints at sweetness but finishes clean and dry. Well made, charming, fruity melange. Lovely as an aperitif. ($13.)
Hugel Pinot Blanc Cuvée les Amours 1997: Aromatic, attractive nose. Peachy fresh with a fleshy roundness in the mouth. ($18)
Trimbach Pinot Blanc 1996: Dry, structured, with an austere elegance. There’s a tight, minerally, character with a crisp, lingering acidity. Makes a good food wine. Note: The ’97 coming on stream soon has more body and fullness due to the warmer year. ($13)
Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune 1995: Petrol and minerals in the nose. Very long, intense and dry. Still young, tight, austere and lemony. Lots of structure and concentration but needs more time to be at its peak. ($50).
Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine 1996: Very intense with lots of acidity and length, yet still nicely ripe. The ’97 coming soon is more supple with less dominant acidity and more tropical fruit. ($57)
Dopff & Irion Gewurztraminer 1997: Forward fresh lichee nose. Aromatic, spicy, soft and lingering. Full of character and body, yet basically dry. ($16) Léon Beyer Tokay-Pinot Gris 1997: Zesty spicy, flavours, medium-full body with creamy texture balanced by good acidity. Tangy finish.($15)
Léon Beyer Riesling Reserve 1997: Crisp and refreshingly dry, citrus/grapefruit in flavour. Lightness yet good length and zingy acidity. ($13)
Pierre Sparr Diamant D’Alsace Réserve 1996: Lightly aromatic pinot blanc varietal. Soft and friendly with peachy pear fruit and smooth, lush finish. ($12)
Pierre Sparr Pinot Blanc Reserve ’98: Very ripe, fruity with almond blossom, pear and peach character. Soft and smooth. ($13)
Pierre Sparr Muscat Reserve ’98: Exuberant grapy nose with peels, blossom in the dry taste. Hint of spice in the finish, good balance, refreshing and charming. ($18)
Crémant d’Alsace Cuvée Willm: A sparkling wine made by the champagne method using a blend of pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling. It’s pleasantly fruity with touch of sweetness and a spicy juicy peach flavour. Is so popular here that Canada has become its biggest market. ($26)
Willm Clos Gaensbroennel Grand Cru Gewurztraminer 1997: From an unusually hot vintage so it’s much richer, riper and creamy textured than normal. Fair amount of residual sugar so best before or after a meal. ($30)
Zind-Humbrecht Herrenweg de Turckheim Gewurztraminer 1997: Very rich, honeyed, powerful and intense with sweetness from noble rot and an aromatic rose petal quality. Incredible. ($35) Note: I tasted 27 wines from the winery’s ’97 vintage. The exceptional weather of warm sunny days and just enough rainfall produced wines that are universally wonderful. Pray that a few bottles of the Muscat Herrenweg de Turckheim, Riesling Heimbourg, Riesling Clos Windsbuhl, Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl and Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal make it to Canada and into your hands.