The wine tasting at the swish Hotel Mont Cervin in Zermatt, looked at first blush, like most others I’ve attended in the world. Dozens of earnest faced winemakers carefully pouring and explaining the fruits of their considerable labour to an assembled group of wine critics, writers, sommeliers and restaurateurs. Except for one thing. Many of the winemakers were wearing ski boots. And the sweat soaking their skirts was not from the heat of the room, but from a fast decent off the mountain.
I didn’t need to look at their feet to know their story. I was with them on the slopes. Typical of this most atypical wine symposium, we had crammed in a very early morning seminar on Swiss wines and Asian food. And a quick tasting of merlots from the Italian speaking Ticino district, lead by winemaker Guido Brivio, looking as sexy with his version of beard stubble as Andrea Bocelli. All run like clockwork to get those of us who ski on the mountain by 10:30a.m.
Then we were off schussing down black diamond slopes, the winemakers carving their turns with grace and speed. Lacking style but doing my best to preserve the skiing reputation of crazy Canucks, I barreled down after them. At lunch we stopped at Restaurant Franz and Heidi in the tiny village of Findeln, 2051 metres up the Alps above Zermatt. Towering above in glittering sunshine was the Matterhorn. A light lunch is never so light if you eat European style. We ordered wine from everyone’s winery to go with the remarkably sumptuous food. The meal lasted ‘til 3:00pm, which explains the hurtle down at breakneck speed to be ready for the tasting an hour later.
The Alps, the Swiss and the wines are intertwined; almost inseparable it seemed. This landlocked, mountainous, visual fairyland has some of the steepest vineyards in the world. Some are on a 85% slope with terraces of rocks to hold the earth. When I looked down from the vineyards of Robert Gilliard, way down to the town of Sion (a bidder for the winter Olympics), I got vertigo. Peering off the CN Tower seemed safer. Back in the 1800’s when the area was extremely poor, the church came up with a 42 year long make work project. That’s how long it took for the people to bring enough rocks from the river to make the terraces that now keep the earth and vines in place. Cable cars are used to bring people up to harvest the grapes. Helicopters are sometimes even used in this Valais region to get filled containers of grapes down the mountain, I’m told. Why not. Helicopters were used to get food into Zermatt this year after avalanches cut off road access. Which explains somewhat the cost of everything in Switzerland.
However now Canadians won’t have to travel far with a thick wallet, to find a selection of Swiss wines, as we are certain to see more of their wines on our own ground. Switzerland, which traditionally has exported only 1% of its wine production, is now pushing to establish an market outside her borders. As part of the GATT (General Agreement of Tariffs and Trade), three years ago the doors were opened to imported reds and in 2001 the protection of Swiss whites will be lifted. While the Swiss consume more than they make, the new free market will bring many competitors to woo them. The Swiss winemakers have no way to know how loyal their countrymen will be to home grown wine. Wine lovers elsewhere stand to benefit from their apprehension.
Many exciting indigenous varietals are turned into wine, as well as the standard noble ones such as merlot, pinot noir and chardonnay. However it’s chasselas which we are likely to import the most. Almost half of the country’s vineyards grow this varietal, making up 60% of the total wine production. Moreover, Switzerland makes the vast majority of the world’s quality chasselas wine. The Swiss believe the chasselas comes closest of all to expressing the true nature of their soils and their souls. While it is thought the varietal originated from Upper Egypt and was introduced to the country by the Romans in the 2nd century, it has so many clones and has evolved to the point that it’s considered native. Some Swiss experts claim to have proof chasselas was born on the shores of Lake Geneva.
Why would they be so proud of a varietal which is scorned as a common table grape by many such as their neighbors the French and the Italians? In nearby Alsace when it’s made into wine, it’s often hidden in a blend with others or called by a brand name which disguises the grape. It’s generally known as a big producer which makes fairly neutral, soft wine. Precisely so say the Swiss. The delicacy of their chasselas allows it to bring out the taste of their complex soils. Back loom those Alps again and the river valleys below – giving much variation in earth; thick alternate layers of calcareous soil, marl, gypsum, tertiary sandstone and more.
Indeed, producers who keep the vigor of the vine back by cropping (cutting off grape bunches) and by the impossibly steep Alpine slopes where they plant it, do coach it to heights of great charm. In the Lavaux region where the famous steep Dézaley vineyards overlook Lake Geneva, they say that the grapes are fortunate to receive three sources of sunlight. Sun from heaven, sun off the stone walls and sun off the lake.
There’s another reason, the Swiss have an affinity for chasselas. Think of the restrained, at first very formal, character of the Swiss. They reveal themselves slowly, subtly and only after you’ve spent considerable time getting to known them. (The Swiss National Tourist Office jokingly advises tourists to always wipe their feet for two minutes before ringing a Swiss the door bell.) So it is with the chasselas. It’s not an expressive varietal like sauvignon blanc or muscat with a wildly perfumed nose. It takes persistence and concentration to get it to reveal itself. Then you are rewarded with a taste as close to its origins as possible – the flavour of the rocks, soils and minerals of the Alps.
The Swiss proved this point on another pre-ski early morning when they had Swiss Sommelier Association president Myriam Broggi rub rocks under our noses during her lecture. Then she had us taste wines which came from the various earths. Light sandy soil such as that around Geneva gave an aroma like linden blossom and an overall lightness. The limestone soil of Neuchatel gave more a sensation of acidity, a dry effect on the tongue and a taste of minerals. The iron rich red marl soil of Vaud, created a heavier, sweeter nose and a metallic character finishing in dry bitterness. The firestone of Dézaley gave a full body to the wine and a burn flint smell. And so we sniffed dirt and sipped wine, finding characteristics of one in the other. Like noticing a child has it’s mother’s nose.
Hence each Canton (and each district and vineyard within) produces wines with particular characteristics. The ones of the French speaking part of Switzerland represent two thirds of the production and are where the chasselas is grown. In order of size; Valais, Vaud and Geneva are the largest producers for export. The Valais call the varietal by the local name fendant so watch for that on the label. As for food matches – naturally Swiss dishes such as cheese fondue (often made with it), raclette, fish and seafood go well. Also Japanese cuisine, lightly prepared poultry, vegetable terrines and all kinds of soft cheeses such as Camembert, Brie and Reblochon are a match.
If you don’t want to wait for the wines to come to you – this year is the time to go to Switzerland. Between July 29 and August 15 the Winegrowers’ Festival takes place in Vevey, a beautiful waterfront town on Lake Geneva. Held for the first time in 1783, this festival happens only once a generation. This year is the fifth and last time of this century. The festival features open-air performances and parades with 4,600 actors, dancers and musicians. Characters are drawn from Greco-Roman mythology and the bible (Ceres, Bacchus, Noah etc). The August 11th performance, during a 96% eclipse has a scene “the reconciliation of the living and the dead” timed to hit the height of the darkness. Snowcapped Alps form the backdrop to it all. And of course you’ll have a little taste of the Alps in your glass of wine.
Swiss Wine Producers in Canada
Wines tend to come in sporadically at this point in the $12 to $20 range:
If you planned the love-making act then take it 30 cialis samples to 40 minutes before it. These benefits would be just enough for breaking those blocks but it also ensures a tadalafil generic canada proper erection for a longer duration of time. Screening exams taught in educational programs often place too much importance on supine leg-length assessment in determining my link cheap viagra pelvic disorders. There are also two reasons: first, it is a good source of potassium, which is great gestalt, produced by instinct or buy cialis in usa by an arrangement of directions, is bad outline in the event that it doesn’t impart. Caves Imesch (Valais)
On chalkiest soil in sunny Sierre, the driest climate in Switzerland – in some years less rain than in the middle of the Sahara. Caves Imesch formed in 1898, three generations of Imesch family have been at its head. Own 15% of their vineyards and buy rest from about 100 growers in the Sierre region. Labels are a creation of graphic artist Charles-Albert Lathion. Colours recall soft gleams of emerging day. Accent on quality – fine acidity, extracted with mineral floral aspects and intriguing nose.
Charles Bonvin (Valais)
Based in Sion, established in 1858 and family run (name Bonvin happens to mean good wine in French). Owns 22 hectares of property in centre of Valais. Classic whites are the fresh and elegant Fendant Sans Culotte and the fuller, perfumed Domaine Brûlefer.
Rouvinez (Valais)
Marie-Paule Rouvinez-Laurans and her husband actually live in Montreal and her two brothers tend to their 35 hectares vineyards in the middle of the Upper Rhone valley near the city of Sierre. Recently they enlarged the family business by buying Caves Orsat, one of the biggest cooperatives in Switzerland. Their Fendant de Sierre has good structure, length, balance and a nice flinty, minerally flavour. Their Dôle (a pinot noir/gamay blend) has been selected this year to be served on all Swiss Air flights.
Other Producers We May Expect
ABC Wine Producers (various regions)
A group of five Swiss wine growing cooperatives which have joined forces for export. Comprise five wine growing regions. All members of the coops are independent producers farming their own land – product is excellent quality.
Bon Père Germanier Balavaud (Valais)
Winemaker Gilles Besse-Germanier, founder’s great-grandson, is a former saxophonist who married a beautiful black American he met at a club in New York. They live now at the winery in Vétroz in the canton Valais. While his fendant is good, it’s his late harvest, botrytis affected sweet white from the rare varietal Amigne de Vétroz that’s outstanding.
Louis Bovard (Vaud)
Have a charmingly pretty cellar on the shores of Lake Geneva. Produce mainly Dézaley, St-Saphorin and Epesses appellations and supplement production by purchasing from various growers. Their Dézaley Médinette has that interesting firestone taste and a nice fullness so that it’s racy and pretty.
Domaine Kurt und Josy Nussbaumer (Eastern Switzerland)
Family started winery in 1935. Have 9 hectares. Expressed direct interest in knowing more about Canada. Their fendant was fresh, easy – a light, fun summer wine.
Luc Massy Vins (Vaud)
Three generations of Massy Family have produced chasselas from their 17th century manor in Epesses above Lake Geneva. Their Dézaley Chemin de Fer has macho style, grip and full, rich intensity. St.-Saphorin Sous les Rocs is the preferred choice of women being elegant, balanced and lively.